What skincare ingredients and products should you use at night only? Or is it this just a myth? Take Vitamin C, for example. Why do some people use vitamin C in the morning and others at night? Why do some exfoliants state you can use them both in the AM and PM and others recommend you stick to night-time use only? And what about essential oils? Where the heck do they fit into your skincare routine? It’s enough to make your head spin.
Truth bomb: time matters. Using the right skincare products at the wrong time of day makes you age faster, not slower! Some of the best skincare ingredients do wonders for your skin at night, but use them during the day and they turn against you. Who are these fickle divas? Here are the skincare ingredients and products you should use at night only:
1. Vitamin A
Vitamin A is a skincare superhero. During the day, it sleeps. But, as soon as the sun sets, it puts its mask on and out it goes to fight wrinkles, dark spots and acne. Its weapons?
- Accelerated cellular turnover (it helps skin exfoliate faster)
- Collagen booster (it keeps your skin firm)
- Free radical fighter (it destroys them before they can leave wrinkles and dark spots on your skin)
Vitamin A hides its true identity under many names:
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
- Retinaldehyde
- Retinol
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Retinyl Retinoate
- Tretinoin (retinoic acid – prescription only)
(If there’s a “retin” somewhere in the name, it’s likely a form of vitamin A).
WHY SHOULD YOU USE VITAMIN A AT NIGHT?
Vitamin A is great at fighting sun damage. At night. During the day, it has the opposite effect: it makes your skin more susceptible to sun damage! Here’s the deal: retinoids basically strip off that dull top layer of skin so the new, fresher cells underneath can shine through. Amazing for glow, not so amazing if the sun hits you straight in the face the next day – because those new cells are way more fragile. Think of it like taking the roof off your house right before a thunderstorm. Not ideal.
Another reason? Retinoids hate light. UV rays break them down super fast, so if you use them in the morning, they’re basically fried before they can even do their thing. Total waste of good product (and your money). Nighttime is when they actually get to work, uninterrupted. Use it at night and slather that sunscreen on in the morning, ladies!
BEST PICKS:
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion ($12.10): This simple formula contains both retinol and granactive retinoid, a new form of retinoid that’s great at treating acne. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
- Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): A high dose retinol serum infused with antioxidants to help you fight premature aging. You can use it on its own for maximum effect. If that’s too irritating for your skin, mix a couple of drops with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, and Paula’s Choice, and SpaceNK
- Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With Retinol ($39.00): This serum has a tiny dose of retinol that’s suitable for beginners. Plus, it’s infused with any antioxidants you can think of. Available at Dermstore and Paula’s Choice
Related: Which Strength Of Retinol Should You Use?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
2. AHAs + BHA
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) are exfoliants. They remove dead skin cells in the same way: by dissolving the glue that holds them together. Once those are off your face, your skin looks smoother. Brighter. Softer. Wrinkles and dark spots have slightly faded, too. The difference? AHAs also hydrate skin and boost collagen production while BHA rids your skin of blemishes and breakouts.
WHY SHOULD YOU USE AHAs AND BHA AT NIGHT?
Anything that removes dead skin cells also makes skin more susceptible to sun damage. Here’s how it works: dead cells are there, on top of your skin, for a reason: to protect the newer cells that aren’t ready to come to the surface, yet. When you remove an entire layer, you’re thinning skin. When UV rays hit your face, your skin is less protected. Cue irritations, redness and wrinkles. Ugh. Avoid the drama and use it at night. P.S. You still need sunscreen in the morning.
BEST PICKS
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): This exfoliant contains two exfoliants. Glycolic Acid to fade away dark spots and Salicylic Acid to unclog pores. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£6.80): A gentle, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: AHAs vs BHA: Which One Should You Choose?
3. Rich Moisturizers + Facial Oils
Balms, oils, intense moisturizers… anything with a rich texture that’s super moisturizing. Oily skin hates them. Dry skin laps them up. They make it smoother and softer again. When my skin’s going dry and needs that little bit of extra TLC, I turn to these heroes to give it all the moisture it needs to stay soft and supple.
WHY SHOULD USE RICH MOISTURISERS AND FACIAL OILS AT NIGHT?
Did you know your skin has an in-built clock (it’s called circadian rhythm)? It’s like an alarm that tells it to do a certain thing at a certain time. For example, this inner clock tells your skin to produce more sebum (your skin’s natural moisturizer) in the morning, amp up its production a notch or two around midday and slow it way down at night. It makes sense to use these super moisturizing concotions at the time of day when your skin’s sebum production is at its lowest. (Plus, lightweight lotions make a better base for makeup ;)).
Also, night time is when your skin gets thirsty. You’re literally losing water while you sleep, so if you don’t slap something heavy on, you wake up feeling tight and dry. A thick cream or oil just locks everything in so your face doesn’t shrivel up overnight.
And honestly, when else can you get away with looking like a glazed donut? You’re not putting makeup over it, you’re not running to the office – no one cares if you look shiny in bed. By morning, it’s all soaked in and your skin feels soft instead of cranky.
Plus, your skin is busy fixing itself at night anyway – patching up the damage from the day, calming down from the sun and pollution. That’s the perfect time to feed it all the rich, nourishing stuff so it can actually repair better. Daytime? It’s too busy fighting off everything you throw at it. Nighttime is repair mode, so give it what it needs.
BEST PICKS:
- CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion ($15.99): It uses humectants that hyaluronic acid and glycerin to attract water into your skin and ceramides to moisturise skin without adding more oil to it. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Dermstore, and Ulta.
- Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream ($60.00): A no-frills, rich cream that deeply moisturises skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK and Ulta.
- Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturizer ($35.00): One of the richest moisturisers I know, this baby is loaded with fatty acids to deeply moisturise even the driest of skin types. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, and Sephora
Related: The Complete Guide To Facial Oil In Skincare: Should You Use One?
4. (Some) Essential Oils
Can I tell you a secret? I’m not a big fan of essential oils. There, I said it. I get why lots of you are looking for more natural alternatives, but natural doesn’t always mean better. It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that an essential oil is only one ingredient. But, any essential oil is made of lots of different compounds.
Some of these compounds are good. They’re what gives these oils their moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging properties. Others are not so good. They’re there to protect the plant against aggressors (plants don’t like to be eaten, so they have their own in-built defenses, too) that could cause irritations.
Of course, you can never generalise. Every essential oil is different. Some are more nourishing (me loves some rosehip oil for example) while others are more irritating. And some are best used at night.
WHY SHOULD YOU USE ESSENTIAL OILS AT NIGHT?
Two of the most problematic compounds in essential oils are 5-methoxypsolaren and bergaptene. They act like a magnifying glass, increasing the effects of UV rays on your skin. Translation? They make your skin more prone to sun damage. Not all essential oils do this, though. So, what are the main cuprits?
- Bergamot
- Bitter orange
- Grapefruit
- Lemon
- Lime
If you really must use them (they smell heavenly, don’t they?), do it at night only.
Related: Why Rosehip Oil Is My Go-To For Every Skin Woe
Should You Use Vitamin C During The Day Or At Night?
You’ve probably heard you should use vitamin C at night, too. That’s not wrong. But, it’s not right, either. It all depends on what side of the debate you’re on. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. It keeps skin young and healthy in three different ways:
- It destroys the free radicals that cause premature wrinkles
- It boosts collagen production, keeping skin firm
- It has a slight exfoliating effect that brightens skin and fades dark spots
Like its cousin vitamin A, vitamin C comes in many forms:
- Ascorbic acid polypeptide
- Ascorbyl glucosamine
- Ascorbyl glucoside
- Ascorbyl palmitate
- Ester-C
- Ethyl ascorbic acid
- L-ascorbic acid (pure form)
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
- Sodium ascorbyl palmitate
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
(If it has “ascorb” somewhere in the name, it’s a form of vitamin C.)
WHY SHOULD YOU USE VITAMIN C AT NIGHT?
Remember when I said anything that exfoliates the skin thins it, making it more prone to sun damage? That. A lot of women don’t like to take any risks, so they relegate vitamin C to their night-time skincare routine, when the sun isn’t around to wreak any damage.
WHY SHOULDN’T YOU USE VITAMIN C AT NIGHT?
Well, if I were to use vitamin C alone, I’d use it at night, too. But, I prefer to get my dose of vitamin C from serums that let it play with its BFFs, vitamin E and ferulic acid. Together, these antioxidants have been shown to boost one another’s effective AND the protection of your sunscreen.
In other words, if you apply CEF under sunscreen, it’ll give you better sun protection. But, there’s a catch. You need to apply the right amount of sunscreen needed to reach the SPF level on the bottle. And, you need to reapply it often.
BEST PICKS:
- MaeLove Glow Booster ($27.95): The cheapest Vitamin C serum in this list, it does everything the others do, but it contains a citrus extract that may be irritating for sensitive skin. Available at Maelove.
- Paula’s Choice C15 Booster ($46.75): It’s enriched with Hyaluronic Acid and glycerin to deeply hydrate skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($169.00): The original Vitamin C serum, it costs an arm and a leg, but it works wonders and delivers what it promises. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
Related: Vitamin C In Skincare: What Does It Do?
Other Ingredients People Ask About
Niacinamide
This one’s the easiest of the bunch. You don’t have to stress about timing because it works morning or night. It’s basically like a multi-tool: calms redness, keeps oil in check, smooths out texture, helps your skin barrier get stronger. If you’ve ever been overwhelmed by products, niacinamide is that chill friend who just goes with the flow and makes everything else easier. Use it under makeup, use it before bed, whatever. It just does its job quietly in the background.
Peptides
Peptides are like little motivational speakers for your skin. They don’t do the repairing themselves, but they tell your skin, “Hey, make more collagen, firm things up.” They don’t freak out in the sun, so technically you can use them anytime, but they just feel more at home at night. Why? Because that’s when your skin is repairing itself anyway, and throwing peptides into the mix is like slipping your repair crew a double espresso.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is just the water magnet. That’s it. It grabs onto water and holds it in your skin. Doesn’t matter if it’s morning or night, it’s always thirsty. The real trick isn’t when you use it, but how. If you put it on bone-dry skin, it can actually pull water out instead of in. The move is: apply it to damp skin, then seal it with a cream or lotion so it stays put. Otherwise, you’re wasting it. Timing doesn’t matter. Hydration does.
The Bottom Line
The most powerful skincare ingredients rarely get along with the sun. If you’re not 100% religious with sunscreen application (and reapplication), it’s best to err on the safe side and use them at night, only.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
