Which retinol strength do you need? I get asked this all the time and here’s how I like to explain it:
I can’t imagine I will ever run a marathon (heck, just the thought is enough to give me nightmares), but if I did, I’d start small. Like, really small. I’d go for ever longer walks for a month before I even attempted a little run. And then, I’d increase the miles slowly, one by one. That way I can get fit without dying in the process. Using retinol is a lot like that. It’s a long marathon.
I know, it’s frustrating. You want to start big so that you can say goodbye to those wrinkles ASAP, but that’ll just get your skin an irritation. Retinol does wonders, but requires a lot of patience. You need to take this budding love relationship very slowly and give your skin time to get to know retinol before fireworks can happen. The good news is that even a little retinol can do a lot of good to your skin. So, what retinol strength do you need and when can you upgrade to the next level?
What Is Retinol And Why Should You Use It?
I could rave about the awesomeness of retinol all day, but I’ll keep it short (and try not to bore you – you’re welcome). This form of vitamin A can:
- Boost collagen production, keeping skin firm and elastic
- Speed up cellular turnover, helping skin renew itself faster
- Get (slowly) rid of wrinkles
- Make dark spots disappear (slowly, too)
- Brighten your complexion
- Bust acne
It’s basically your skincare Swiss army knife. Got texture? Retinol. Got hyperpigmentation? Retinol. Need something to make your face look like it actually slept last night? Retinol. There’s a reason derms reach for this stuff more than anything else.
Retinol ain’t optional, ladies. But you have to be very careful with it. Powerful weapons like this can backfire and irritate your skin if used too much too soon. So how much do YOU need?
Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Retinol Strength For Beginners: 0.01%-0.03%
I know, why bother putting in so little retinol, you’ve probably wondering? Because retinol is powerful, even that little bit works. Such low concentrations are great for beginners who have just decided to introduce retinol into their skincare routines. Or for anyone with sensitive skin.
Frankly, if you have sensitive skin, I’d stay at the beginner’s level forever. There’s a small chance your skin won’t be able to tolerate even that little, so let’s not make it even madder by going any higher (yes, sensitive skin is a pain and if you’re worried about it, my scientist friend Cheryl talks you through ‘how to make your skin love retinoids’ inside her online course AgeLock).
How Should You Use It As A Beginner?
Start with once or twice a week. Yes, really. You are not behind, you’re just letting your skin learn. Then after 2-3 weeks, bump it up to 3 times a week if there’s no flaking, redness, or burning. If your skin’s still acting like a drama queen, drop back down and give it more time. The goal here isn’t “tough it out.” It’s “build tolerance like a skincare ninja.”
Best Picks:
- Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With Retinol ($39.00): 0.03% retinol. Better for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin. Available at Paula’s Choice
- Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol ($39.00): 0.01% retinol. Better for dry and normal skin. Available at Paula’s Choice
If you’re stuck with deep wrinkles or dark spots, you need to take your retinol game to the next level after a few weeks. How many weeks? That depends. If you can’t see any redness, peeling, or any other sign of irritation, it means your skin is now ready to upgrade. A higher dose brings faster benefits. Prepare to look at the mirror in awe.
But let’s keep it real: this is usually where purging starts. Not always, but often. Especially if you’ve got acne-prone skin. That’s because retinol speeds up cell turnover, which can bring buried breakouts to the surface before they clear up. Annoying? Yes. Permanent? No. If you can ride it out for a few weeks, you’ll come out the other side with smoother, clearer skin.
Related: Is It A Purge Or A Breakout? How To Tell The Difference (And How To Treat It)
What Should You NOT Use With It?
This is the level where skincare compatibility really matters. Don’t mix your retinol with exfoliating acids like glycolic or salicylic on the same night unless you want to start a bonfire on your face. Same goes for Vitamin C in some cases. Use it in the morning instead. And skip the essential oils, heavy fragrance, and overachiever routines. Retinol does enough. Your job is to support it, not sabotage it.
Related: Which Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Mix And Match Together?
Best Picks:
- Paula’s Choice Resist Wrinkle Repair Retinol Serum ($55.00): 0.1% retinol. A silly serum loaded with antioxidants. Available at Paula’s Choice
- La Roche Posay Redermic Anti-Aging Dermatological Treatment ($56.99): 0.1% retinol in a silicone base. Available at Dermstore, Look Fantastic, and Ulta
- The Ordinary Retinol 2% In Squalene: 2% retinol in a moisturising squalane base. Available at Beauty Bay, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Retinol Strength For Advanced/Pro Users: 0.5% to 2%
At some point, you’ll probably want to go as far as you can with retinol. You know, use the highest possible dose. That’s 2%. But go there only if you absolutely must. Remember, the higher the dose, the higher the benefits, but also higher the risk of irritations. Even if your skin can tolerate retinol well by now, there’s always the chance that pushing things too far will cause more problems than it’s worth.
As a rule, up your retinol game when the concentration you’re using isn’t working that well (you know, when you’re not seeing the results you should). If a smaller one is doing wonders for you, don’t let greed mess things up.
Also worth knowing: not all 1% retinols are created equal. Some are retinol blends (in other words, you have 0.1% retinol paired with other ingredients whose overall concentration is 2%!). Others are sandpaper in a bottle. Read reviews, check the full INCI list, and don’t be afraid to patch test like your life depends on it. Your future face will thank you.
Is Prescription Retinoid Better Than OTC Retinol?
Short answer: it’s stronger, but not always “better.” Prescription options like tretinoin (aka Retin-A) deliver faster results because your skin doesn’t have to convert them the way it does with OTC retinol. But they’re also harsher and come with more irritation. For some people, the slow-and-steady route with retinol wins because it’s easier to stick to consistently. And consistency wins the race, always.
Best Picks:
- The Ordinary 1% Retinol In Squalane ($8.60): The strongest retinol concentration in a moisturising (and oily!) squalane base. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
- Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster ($55.00): 1% retinol and plenty of antioxidants. You can use this alone or dilute it with your fave moisturiser to make it gentler on your skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice
- Peter Thomas Roth Night Infusion PM ($65.00): 1.5% retinol release gradually over a period of several hours to make it gentler on your skin. Has a moisturising squalane base and its fair share of antioxidants. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Peter Thomas Roth, Revolve, and Ulta
Packaging Matters
Whatever retinol product you opt for, make sure it doesn’t come in a jar. Retinol is a diva that loses some of its effectiveness every time it’s exposed to light and air. That’s every time you open a jar basically. Only airtight and opaque tubes and bottles will make it happy and keep it working as it should.
Also: shelf life matters. Don’t hoard old retinol from two years ago thinking it’s still working. If it smells off or has turned a weird color, it’s probably lost potency or gone bad altogether. Retinol is not immortal. Check the expiration date, especially if you’re using it inconsistently.
Related: Skincare Products Expiration Dates
The Bottom Line
If you’re serious about anti-aging, sooner or later you’ll have to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine. Do it like if you were training for a marathon. Start small and work you way up slowly. That way, you’ll get all its awesome benefits without the annoying side effects. And if you need a ‘marathon trainer’, which let’s be honest, don’t we all? Check out my scientist friend’s course, AgeLock, inside she’s showing you exactly how to get healthier, younger skin as proven by science. What’s even better is you can start today.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
