Have you been eating your bacteria lately? I try to sneak a bottle of kefir or a pot of Greek yogurt into my diet every day. I feel SO much better since I’ve started doing it. Now my mood is lighter. That inner critic in my head doesn’t show up as often. And my skin has fewer blemishes.
Talking about skin, have you noticed how many fermented ingredients are popping up at Sephora lately? A trend started in South Korea (where else?), fermented skincare promises to be the next best thing in skincare. Is letting your skincare ingredients marinate a little longer a good idea or is fermented skincare just a gimmick? Here’s what the science says:
What’s Fermentation?
Fermentation is a metabolic process that uses microorganisms like yeast to convert sugars into other substances. Wine is the perfect example. The yeast feeds on the sugar in grapes and releases alcohol, which helps preserve the wine.
I’m a teetotaller so no wine for me. But I get my fix of good bacteria from other fermented foods such as kefir, kombucha, kimchi, sauerkraut and vinegar. Fermentation doesn’t just give us delicious foods. It has plenty of health benefits as well:
- It increases the availability of nutrients in these foods
- It improves your gut health (which also helps you fight depression and blemishes)
- It helps fight cancer
In skincare, fermentation isn’t about keeping your cream fresh (that’s what preservatives do). It’s about tweaking ingredients so your skin can actually use them. Picture it like this: you wouldn’t bite straight into a massive steak – you’d cut it into smaller pieces first. Same thing here. Fermentation takes big, clunky plant extracts and chops them down so they’re easier to absorb, sometimes even making them stronger and less irritating in the process.
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Does Fermented Skincare Work?
This is a tricky question to answer. Skincare brands that use fermented ingredients claim they have two main benefits:
- It breaks down ingredients into a smaller size so they can more easily penetrate skin
- It produces minerals and nutrients that are good for the skin, like Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Let’s start with point one. A lot of ingredients are too large to penetrate skin. If you make them smaller, they can get in. But, if you make them too small, they lose all their good properties and stop working altogether. That’s what makes this question so tricky to answer.
Whether a fermented ingredient will do wonders for your skin depends on how small it’s become and what nutrients it releases. Take certain herbs – once they’re fermented, they can spit out new antioxidants or peptides your skin loves. That’s not happening if you just dump the raw extract into a jar. But let’s be real, not every fermentation turns into skincare gold. Sometimes it’s just marketing with barely any difference.
And when it’s not? Fermented ingredients in skincare tend to produce Alpha Hydroxy Acids, a family of exfoliants that makes your skin softer and brighter. Some AHAs can also boost collagen production, keeping skin firm. Question is: why go through all the trouble of fermenting skincare ingredients when you can just add AHAs to your lotions and potions?
Related: AHAs: What The Are And What Do They Do For Your Skin?
What Fermented Ingredients Really Work?
I’m not saying don’t splurge on fermented skincare. I’m saying it’s a minefield.
Just like some brands use Vitamin C properly (a big dose paired with Vitamin E and ferulic acid in an opaque, air-tight bottle), others just add a drop to entice you to buy their average products. Some fermented ingredients are amazing for your skin but others may just as well be snake oil.
You can’t just pick a bottle of fermented skincare off the shelf and think it’ll do wonders for you. You need to know what fermented ingredient it contains and how well they work. Too much work, isn’t it?
No worries, I’m here to do all the hard work for you. Atm, there are two fermented ingredients that science say work really well:
Other promising options include fermented rice water, a staple in K-beauty known for brightening and evening out skin tone, and fermented green tea, which amps up the antioxidant punch and may help soothe redness. Some brands also use fermented yeast extracts, which are said to help with skin barrier repair – though results are more mixed there. The key takeaway? Not all fermented ingredients have equal science backing them. If that fermented skincare product you’re eyeing has red ginseng or soy, it may be worth the splurge.
Common Questions About Fermented Skincare
Is fermented skincare better for sensitive skin?
Sometimes, but don’t let the label fool you. Fermentation chops ingredients down into smaller pieces, which can make them easier to handle. That’s why some people with touchy skin say fermented ginseng or rice water doesn’t sting the way the regular stuff does. But sensitive skin is unpredictable as hell. One person’s holy grail is another person’s rash waiting to happen. Fermented doesn’t mean it’s suddenly “safe for everyone.” You still have to patch test. Seriously, don’t skip it. Just because it sounds gentler doesn’t mean your face won’t blow up.
Can fermented skincare replace my regular actives?
No way. If you’re counting on retinol to keep wrinkles away or Vitamin C to brighten, fermented skincare isn’t going to take over that job. What it does is more like extra support – some added hydration, a few new antioxidants, maybe a calming effect if your skin’s cranky. Think of it like adding toppings to pizza. Fun, tasty, makes the whole thing better. But take away the base (retinoids, sunscreen, Vitamin C) and you’ve just got random toppings on the table. Fermented skincare is cool, but it’s not the backbone of your routine.
Do fermented products last longer?
Nope. People hear “fermented” and think of sauerkraut lasting a year in the fridge. Skincare is not the same. The fermentation is done before it ever hits the bottle. Once it’s on the shelf, it’s just a normal product. Shelf life comes down to preservatives and packaging. Jar you’re sticking your fingers in every night? That thing’s going bad quicker. Pump bottle that stays sealed? Safer. Fermentation isn’t keeping bacteria out of your cream. Preservatives are.
Why is fermented skincare usually more expensive?
Because it takes time and effort. Brands can’t just throw in raw soy or rice and call it done. They’ve got to let the microbes sit there and do their thing, sometimes for weeks. That slows everything down and adds cost. Then the marketing team slaps “fermented” on the label, calls it K-beauty innovation, and doubles the price. Sometimes it’s fair – fermented ginseng and soy actually have research behind them. Other times you’re just paying for a buzzword.
Myths About Fermented Skincare
Myth: “Fermented products are 100% natural and chemical-free.”
Come on. Fermentation is a chemical process. Microbes eat sugars and proteins and spit out new compounds. That’s chemistry. Your serum didn’t just sit in a clay pot like wine. It was controlled in a lab to make sure the microbes didn’t go rogue. “Natural” is just a feel-good word. Doesn’t mean anything here.
Myth: “If it’s fermented, it’s automatically better.”
Not even close. Some stuff does get better – soy cranks up hyaluronic acid, ginseng works harder on wrinkles, rice water brightens more. Other stuff doesn’t change at all. So if you’re paying three times the price for “fermented cactus extract” or whatever, odds are you just got played by marketing. Fermentation isn’t a magic wand. Sometimes it’s genius, sometimes it’s pointless.
Myth: “It works the same way as probiotics in food.”
Nope. Yogurt gives you live bacteria. Skincare doesn’t. Imagine opening a cream and it’s bubbling like kombucha – nobody’s putting that on their face. What you’re actually getting are the leftovers from fermentation, like amino acids or antioxidants. Those are good for your skin, but it’s not the same as taking probiotics for your gut. Totally different deal.
The Bottom Line
Fermented skincare will probably be the best next thing in skincare in a few years. For now, there are only a handful of fermented ingredients proven to work. Spend your money wisely.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
