Another form of Vitamin C? Aren’t there a gazillion already?!
- L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure (and most unstable) one
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is super stable
- Ascorbyl Glucosamine is better at fading dark spots
I could go on, but let’s leave it at that, shall we? Point is: yes, there are already a gazillion forms of vitamin C out there. Do we really need one more? Well, we’re getting it anyway. Meet Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, the newest Vitamin C kid on the block. Here’s what it does for your skin:
What Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is the newest form of Vitamin C to hit the shelves. It’s made by mixing Vitamin C with Isopalmitic Acid. What makes it different from all the rest? It’s oil-soluble, so it penetrate skin faster than any other form of vitamin C out there.
Here’s the deal: your skin has a lipid (oil) protective layer that keeps moisture in and germs out. If you’ve paid attention in your chemistry class, you know that water and oil don’t mix. That’s why anything water-based needs the helping hand of a good delivery system to penetrate your skin. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is soluble in oil so it easily slips into the skin.
That’s also why brands are obsessed with it. L-Ascorbic Acid goes off fast in water-based serums (you know, when it turns brown and smells weird). This one hangs around longer, so you don’t waste money on a bottle that dies after a month. And because it’s oil-friendly, it plays nice with things like Vitamin E and Retinol, which means you’ll see it pop up in formulas that promise more than just brightening.
Related: Does Your Skin Really Absorb 60% Of What You Put On It?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Benefits For Skin
Like all forms of vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
Here’s something interesting: research shows Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate may also help reduce skin redness and inflammation, making it not just an anti-aging all-star but also a potential ally for rosacea-prone skin. While more studies are needed, the early data suggests it might have a calming effect in addition to the classic vitamin C benefits.
Basically, it does what other forms of Vitamin C do. But, because it penetrates skin faster and more easily, it works better. 🙂
Related: The Complete Guide To Vitamin C In Skincare
Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Have Any Side Effects?
Of course, it has. Vitamin C always has the potential to be irritating, especially if you have sensitive skin. Pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is the worst culprit whereas its derivates are said to be gentler. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate may be the exception. Studies have shown it can irritate sensitive skin.
It’s the other side of the coin: if Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate can penetrate skin more deeply and deliver a more powerful dose of Vitamin C, it makes sense it’s also more likley to irritate your skin. If your skin is pretty resilient or used to Vitamin C, I wouldn’t worry. But, if you have sensitive skin, I’d stick to another form of Vitamin C. Just in case.
Most products keep it around 3-10%, and that’s usually chill. But some, like The Ordinary, crank it up to 20%. That’s when your skin might start yelling at you, especially if you’re already using acids or retinol. If you’re new, don’t be a hero – start lower.
And yeah, because it’s oil-based, people with oily or acne-prone skin freak out about breakouts. The ingredient itself won’t clog you, but if the formula is packed with heavy oils, that’s another story. Check the label before you blame the vitamin C.
Related: Types Of Vitamin C Used In Skincare
What Are The Best Products With Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
- Korres Apothecary Wild Rose Spotless Serum with 15% Vitamin Super C ($72.00): The most expensive serum on this list, it has its fair share of antioxidants and moisturising oils to keep skin soft, supple, and younger-looking. Available at Dermstore and Ulta
- PEACH & LILY Transparen-C Pro Spot Treatment ($45.00): Loaded with antioxidants in an oily base, it deeply moisturises and helps prevent wrinkles. Best for normal and dry skin. Available at Peach & Lily and Ulta
- The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% In Vitamin F (£20.50): This Vitamin C serum comes in a moisturising, oily base. Ideal for sensitive skin. Available at Asos, Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta
How Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Compare To Other Forms Of Vitamin C?
| VITAMIN C FORM | STRENGTHS/WHAT EVIDENCE SHOWS | WEAKNESSES/SIDE EFFECTS |
|---|---|---|
| L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA) | Most studied. Strong antioxidant activity, very good at boosting collagen and brightening. Clinical trials backing. | Very unstable. Needs low pH, gets oxidised by light/air/water. Can irritate, especially sensitive skin. Short shelf-life after opening. |
| Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate / IPAA | Lipid-soluble so better penetration through skin’s oil layer. More stable, lower irritation. Some clinical evidence of improving hydration, wound healing, even skin texture. | Less “track record” than LAA. Maybe slower to show some effects. Might cost more in fancy formulas. Some people still get irritation if formulation is bad. |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) | Gentler on skin. Hydrating properties. Good for sensitive / dry skin. Clinically shown to help brighten and increase collagen. | Not as potent or fast-acting as LAA / some lipid-soluble forms. Sometimes struggles to penetrate deeply unless designed well. Needs consistent use. |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) | Very good for acne-prone / oily skin. Less irritating. Stable in water. Antibacterial properties, helps with brightening. | Slower acting. Might need higher concentrations. Effects are more gradual. Sometimes less dramatic for deep wrinkles vs what LAA can do. |
| Others (e.g. Ascorbyl Glucoside, 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, etc.) | Slower acting. Might need higher concentrations. Effects are more gradual. Sometimes less dramatic for deep wrinkles vs what LAA can do. | Compared to LAA or ATIP, often weaker. Some need higher doses. Some may convert slowly to active vitamin C in the skin (so effect takes longer). Fewer human clinical trials for many of them. |
FAQs About Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Can I Use It With Retinol?
Yeah, you actually can. Since both are oil-soluble, they don’t clash. Some fancy serums even throw them together. Just don’t pile them on if your skin freaks out easily – that combo can be strong.
Related: Ingredients You Shouldn’t Mix And Match
It Is Safe During Pregnancy?
Most people say vitamin C (including this form) is fine when you’re pregnant, but there aren’t tons of studies. Best move? Double-check with your doctor before slapping it on.
Related: What Ingredients Should You Avoid During Pregnancy?
How Long Before I See Results?
Don’t expect magic overnight. Brightening usually shows up after a month or so, and the whole collagen/firming thing can take a few months of steady use.
Does It Go Bad Like Other Vitamin C Serums?
Not as fast. Because it’s oil-based, it doesn’t oxidise into orange goo in two weeks. Still, keep the cap on and don’t leave it baking in the sun if you want it to last.
The Bottom Line
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is one of the most powerful forms of Vitamin C to fade away wrinkles and dark spots. It’s still fairly new but I’m sure it’ll pop up in more and more skincare products in the very near future!
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
