You’ve probably heard of microdermabrasion. I’s that old-school exfoliating treatment where they basically sand your face down to make it smoother. And now there’s hydrodermabrasion, which sounds like the same thing but more hydrating… right? Not exactly. They’re totally different treatments pretending to live in the same category. One blasts your face with grit, the other with serum-soaked suction. Same goal, completely different vibes. So, in the debate between hydrodermabrasion vs microdermabrasion, which one is the best option for you?
Which one’s going to leave you glowing, and which one’s going to leave you red, raw, and wondering why you paid for the privilege? That’s what we’re getting into. Real science, real results, none of the fluffy marketing BS. Let’s get into the actual difference between microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion – and which skin treatment is actually worth booking.
What Even Is Microdermabrasion?
Microdermabrasion is basically the OG exfoliating treatment people used to get when they wanted their skin to look “refreshed,” aka blasted raw and red and smooth-ish after a few rounds. The microdermabrasion machine either scrapes your face with a crusty diamond-tipped wand (diamond microdermabrasion) or shoots out tiny crystals at high speed (crystal microdermabrasion), then vacuums the whole mess up like a little industrial hoover for your pores.
It doesn’t go deep. It just shaves off the top layer of the skin: the dull, rough bit that’s full of old cells, leftover product, and all the crap that makes your skin look meh. And yeah, that gives you radiant skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines. But you’re also walking out with a tomato-red face that feels like it’s been exfoliated with sandpaper and zero chill. If your skin’s tough and greasy and just generally unfazed by anything, you’ll probably love it. If your barrier is already on its last nerve? A microdermabrasion treatment will straight-up slap it.
Related: Diamond VS Crystal Dermabrasion: Which Form Of Microdermabrasion Is Right For You?
So Then, What’s Hydrodermabrasion?
Hydrodermabrasion is the version someone invented after they realised not everyone wants to get their face sanded down like a coffee table. It uses water (okay, technically pressurised serum with a gentle suction) to exfoliate your skin without wrecking it in the process. No grit. No scraping. No trauma. It lifts off the dead skin and shoves hydration and actives back in at the same time.
It’s the kind of thing that actually feels nice. You lie there while this vacuum-pen thing glides across your face, sucking out gunk and pumping in hyaluronic acid or salicylic acid or whatever your skin’s screaming for. It’s gentle, it’s fast, and your skin leaves looking like you just got 10 hours of sleep and drank water for once in your life. If you’ve heard of a Hydrafacial treatment, that’s just the name-brand version of it. Same treatment, fancier branding, bigger price tag. But whether you get the branded one or not, hydrodermabrasion is for people who want glow, not grit.
Related: I Tried Hydrafacial: Is It Really Worth The Hype?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Hydrodermabrasion VS Microdermabrasion Benefits
MICRODERMABRASION
Microdermabrasion is the one that goes hard. If your skin’s feeling like sandpaper or looking like you’ve been living under fluorescent lighting for six months straight, this can help. It scrapes off all the dull, dead skin cells sitting on top of your skin’s surface and gives your face that “Oh hey, my skin’s actually alive under here” moment. It can help fade dark spots, smooth out skin texture, and make your skincare stop sitting on your face like a film and actually go in and do something. You won’t get overnight miracles, but you will get fresher-looking skin after a few rounds – especially if you’ve got sun damage or old acne scars that just won’t budge.
HYDRODERMABRASION
Hydrodermabrasion, on the other hand, is for when your skin is just tired. Not bad, not broken – just meh. It’s the kind of non-invasive treatment that gives your face an instant pick-me-up: plumper, glowier, more hydrated, and way less angry. It pulls out the crap clogging your pores while pushing in ingredients that actually calm your skin down. It doesn’t attack, it just… helps. Think of it as your skin’s version of a green juice and a good nap. It won’t resurface years of sun damage, but it will make you look more alive in under an hour. One more thing: studies show that “a series of six HydraFacial Clarifying Treatments improves overall skin appearance in patients with active acne.”
So yeah, microdermabrasion strips, hydrodermabrasion feeds. One is rough and tough and goes in swinging. The other shows up with snacks and a weighted blanket. Choose your fighter.
Do They Boost Collagen Production?
Microdermabrasion? Yes, barely. It scrapes off the top outer layer of skin, and your body reacts by repairing it. That repair includes a bit of collagen, but we’re talking small amounts. It’s not deep enough to rebuild anything major. You’re not getting firmer skin overnight. If you do it regularly, it might help with fine lines, but only if your skin isn’t already worn out from other treatments.
Hydrodermabrasion? No. It doesn’t damage the skin, so there’s nothing for your body to repair. No repair = no collagen. It makes your skin look better on the surface (hydrated, clearer, brighter) but it’s not building anything underneath.
Hydrodermabrasion VS Microdermabrasion Side Effects
Here’s where most places try to gloss over the reality, but you’re not here for spa brochure language.
MICRODERMABRASION SIDE EFFECTS
- Redness right after (expect it to last a few hours)
- Skin can feel raw, tight, or overexposed
- Might trigger breakouts if your barrier’s compromised
- Not good for rosacea, eczema, or anyone using strong actives
- Can cause tiny scratches if done too aggressively or too often
HYDRODERMABRASION SIDE EFFECTS
- Almost none, maybe minor redness if you have super reactive skin
- Slight breakout if lots of congestion is being cleared out, but nothing major
- Rare for skin to feel irritated unless you’ve got open wounds or infections
If your skin barrier is solid and you want a deep exfoliation, microdermabrasion can be worth the redness. If your barrier is iffy, or you’ve already got dryness, sensitive skin, or active breakouts, hydrodermabrasion is the safe bet.
How Long Do Results Last?
MICRODERMABRASION RESULTS
People like it because you see immediate results. You’ll usually notice smoother skin right away, and makeup goes on like butter. But the deeper stuff (like pigmentation and texture) takes a few sessions. Results last around 2 to 4 weeks depending on your skin type, routine, and whether you keep up with SPF (please do).
HYDRODERMABRASION RESULTS
You’ll leave glowing. Like, “did you just drink eight glasses of water?” glowing. That juicy, hydrated skin look lasts for about a week or two. It doesn’t change deep scarring or hyperpigmentation dramatically, but it keeps your skin looking consistently good, especially if you go regularly.
How Long Does Each Treatment Take?
Microdermabrasion is quick and effective treatment: about 30 to 45 minutes tops. It’s usually done in a few passes and doesn’t involve much pampering.
Hydrodermabrasion is more of an experience. You’re looking at 45 to 60 minutes, sometimes longer if they do masks or LED afterward. It feels more like a full facial with tech involved. You could even get it done in your lunch break.
How Much Do These Skincare Treatments Cost?
MICRODERMABRASION
UK: £60 to £100 per session
US: $75 to $150 depending on location
Usually sold in packages of 4-6 because you’ll need multiple for best results.
HYDRODERMABRASION (OR HYDRAFACIAL-STYLE)
UK: £90 to £180 per session
US: $150 to $300 depending on the machine and the extras
Sometimes you can get “light” versions for cheaper (shorter time, fewer steps).
Hydrodermabrasion treatments are more expensive, but you’re paying for the extra serums, suction tech, and hydration boost. Microderm is more affordable per session, but if you need 6 facial treatments to see real results, the costs level out.
Hydrodermabrasion VS Microdermabrasion: Which One Should You Choose?
This depends entirely on your skin type, what your skin’s been through lately, and what your goals are.
Go for microdermabrasion if:
- Your skin is thick, oily, or congested
- You’ve got sun damage, rough patches, or mild acne scars
- You can tolerate intense exfoliation and don’t mind some redness
- You’re not using strong actives (like retinoids or AHAs) right now
- Better for acne-prone skin and oily skin
Go for hydrodermabrasion if:
- Your skin is sensitive, reactive, or just tired
- You want that “glass skin” glow and a brighter complexion without any recovery time
- You’re breaking out or using strong skincare (like tretinoin)
- You want something you can do regularly without wrecking your barrier
Neither one is “better.” It’s like comparing a deep-clean scrub to a nourishing spa treatment: they both have their place. If you’re not sure, start with hydrodermabrasion. It’s lower risk, and still gives that fresh, healthy skin look.
The Bottom Line
When it comes to hydrodermabrasion vs microdermabrasion, the key differences are how they exfoliate and how your skin feels afterward. Microderm is the gritty, tough love option. Hydroderm is the gentle-but-effective glow-up and the best treatment for dry skin. One strips. One soaks. And depending on where your skin’s at, either one could be the move.
If you want to play it safe and still look like you drink your water and sleep 8 hours? Hydrodermabrasion is an excellent choice. If your skin can take a little abuse and you want a serious texture reset? Go for microderm, but maybe start on a Friday when you don’t have plans. And no matter what you choose, wear SPF. Every damn day. You just buffed your face. Don’t fry it after.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
