Okay so korean chemical exfoliators are having a serious moment right now: they’re all over TikTok, everyone’s talking about them, and honestly I wanted to know what the fuss was about. Because an exfoliant is an exfoliant, so what makes these so special? Korean skincare has this whole thing about being gentle but effective, and their chemical exfoliants usually come with lower concentrations of acids plus a bunch of soothing ingredients thrown in. We’re gonna figure out what to actually look for when you’re shopping, how they stack up against Western chemical exfoliants, and whether they’re actually worth adding to your routine.
What to Look For in a Korean Chemical Exfoliator
The same things to look for in any chemical exfoliator, really:
- Figure out which acid you need: AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid) work on your skin’s surface: good for dry skin, dark spots, dull skin, fine lines. Glycolic acid hits hardest, lactic acid is gentler and hydrates, mandelic acid is the chillest. BHAs (salicylic acid and betaine salicylate) dive into your pores: get these if you’re breaking out, got oily skin, or dealing with excess sebum. PHAs are for when your skin freaks out at everything, sensitive skin types start here. Some products have all three like those AHA BHA PHA combos – solid if you want everything or have no clue what you need.
- Check the concentration: Korean exfoliants usually run 2-5% instead of the 7-10% Western stuff. That means you can use them more without wrecking your skin barrier – they’re just not as effective. Look at the ingredient list, if the acid’s near the top there’s actually a decent amount, if it’s hiding at the bottom with preservatives it’s not doing much.
- Look for soothing ingredients: You want centella asiatica extract, hyaluronic acid, stuff that calms your face while the acids work. Exfoliating without backup is how you get an angry red face, especially with sensitive skin.
- Decide on the format: Peeling pads and toner pads are pre-soaked, just swipe and done. Liquid toners you pour onto cotton yourself, more control. Treatment toners you pat straight in with your hands. Just pick whatever you’ll actually remember to use.
Related: Physical VS Chemical Exfoliant: Which One Is Better For You?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
How Korean Exfoliators Differ From Western Ones
LOWER CONCENTRATION LEVELS
Korean chemical exfoliators usually sit at like 2-5% while Western ones are more 7-10%. Now everyone acts like lower is automatically better because it’s “gentler” but like… gentle doesn’t mean shit if it doesn’t work. Yeah you can use lower concentrations more often without wrecking your skin barrier, and some people do get better results that way. But a lot of Korean products have the acids so far down the ingredient list they’re basically not there. Western exfoliants at least put their acids up front so you know you’re getting something that’ll actually do something to your dead skin cells.
FORMULATION APPROACH
Korean stuff loves cramming everything into one product: you’ve got your acids plus centella asiatica extract, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, the whole gang. So it’s exfoliating and calming and hydrating all at once. Western chemical exfoliants are usually more like “here’s your glycolic acid, that’s it, figure out the rest yourself.” Neither’s better, just different vibes. Some people like the all-in-one, some people would rather control what they’re putting on their face.
TREATMENT PHILOSOPHY
Korean skincare philosophy is all about gentle exfoliation you do forever and ever. Consistent use, long game, don’t be aggressive. Western approach is more “let’s see results now” with stronger stuff that works faster. Both work if you stick with them, just depends what your skin can handle and how patient you are.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
This pisses me off: Korean products love using betaine salicylate instead of real salicylic acid, or throwing in citric acid and calling it an AHA exfoliant. They’re like “it’s gentler!” Yeah it’s also weaker. If you’ve got actual acne-prone skin or legit dark spots or your skin texture’s rough, derivatives might not do jack. You need real active ingredients that actually work. Some Korean exfoliants have them, a lot don’t. You gotta read the ingredient list instead of buying whatever’s viral.
Related: AHAs VS BHAs: Which One Is Better For You?
What’s The Best Korean Chemical Exfoliator?
Let’s take a look at some of the most popular k-beauty exfoliators and find out which ones are worth adding to your skincare routine:
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid ($25.00)
Okay so this one’s like the OG of Korean chemical exfoliators: everyone and their mom has tried it at some point. It uses betaine salicylate instead of regular salicylic acid, which is supposed to be gentler but here’s the thing: it’s also weaker. If you’ve got stubborn blackheads or serious acne-prone skin, betaine salicylate just doesn’t hit the same as actual salicylic acid. It’s like diet soda when you wanted the real thing. The formula’s got niacinamide and hyaluronic acid thrown in for good measure, so at least it’s not gonna wreck your skin barrier. But if you’re expecting it to actually clear out your pores the way a proper BHA does, you might be waiting a while. That said, if you’ve got sensitive skin and regular salicylic acid makes your face angry, this could work for you. The texture’s watery, absorbs fast, doesn’t smell like anything.
Available at: Face The Future, Look Fantastic, Sephora, Superdrug, Ulta and Yes Style
Active ingredients: Betaine salicylate, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide.
Benefits: Hydrates skin and provides very light exfoliation.
Cons: Doesn’t unclog pores as well as salicylic acid, it’s very weak.
Skin type: Sensitive skin.
Fragrance-free: Yes.
SOME BY MI AHA-BHA-PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner ($22.44)
Okay so this is like THE Korean chemical exfoliator everyone raves about on TikTok and honestly? I don’t get the hype. Yeah it’s got all three acids – salicylic acid, lactobionic acid (the PHA), and citric acid (the AHA) – but look where they are on the ingredient list. They’re practically at the bottom, hanging out with the preservatives. That means there’s barely any of them in there. For something that’s supposed to be a miracle toner that transforms your skin in 30 days, it’s giving more “gentle maintenance” than actual exfoliation.
If you’ve got serious acne-prone skin or dark spots or rough skin texture, this probably isn’t gonna do much. It’s got tea tree water and niacinamide up top which are nice for calming things down, but that’s not really what you’re buying an exfoliant for, you know?
And then there’s the peppermint oil. Why. Just why. Peppermint oil is irritating for a lot of people, especially if you’ve got sensitive skin types, and it serves literally no purpose except making it smell minty. It’s a fragrance ingredient pretending to be useful. The whole thing feels like it’s banking on the AHA BHA PHA label to sell itself without actually having enough of those acids to matter.
Active ingredients: Salicylic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Citric Acid and niacinamide.
Benefits: Hydrates skin.
Cons: Very low concentration of exfoliating acids, so don’t expect it to do much. Also, contains fragrant essential oils.
Skin type: Normal skin (just because you don’t really need exfoliation!).
Fragrance-free: Technically yes. But it contains peppermint oil that makes it smell good – and may irritate sensitive skin.
NEOGEN Dermalogy Real Cica Pad ($20.00)
These are actually pretty good if you want something that won’t murder your face. The whole thing’s built around centella asiatica extract and all its individual components: asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid, madecassoside. Basically it’s cica overload which is great for calming shit down if you’ve got sensitive skin or your face hates everything. The actual exfoliating part comes from lactobionic acid and gluconolactone: both PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) so they’re super gentle. Like if regular acids make your skin angry, these won’t. Plus there’s three types of hyaluronic acid, ceramides, allantoin, panthenol… they really went all in on the nice stuff.
The pads are convenient as hell: pre-soaked so you just swipe and done. Good for when you want gentle exfoliation but don’t wanna think about it. My one complaint? Why the fuck is there bergamot oil in here?! It’s at the end so there’s not a ton but still, citrus oils can irritate your skin especially when you’re exfoliating regularly. For a product that’s supposed to be all soothing ingredients and gentle, throwing in essential oil is dumb. If your skin doesn’t care about that stuff you’re fine, but if it does, that bergamot might mess with you. Would be perfect without it honestly.
Available at: Beauty Bay, Soko Glam, Stylevana, and Yes Style
Active ingredients: Lactobionic Acid, Gluconolactone, and niacinamide.
Benefits: Removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, and soothes irritations.
Cons: Contains bergamot oil, which can irritate sensitive skin.
Skin type: Normal skin, dry skin, and sensitive skin.
Fragrance-free: Technically yes. But it contains bergamot oil that makes it smell good – and may irritate sensitive skin.
DR ORACLE A-Thera Tea Tree Peeling Sticks ($22.61)
These are actually pretty decent: they’ve got lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid so you’re getting AHAs and BHAs together. Good for acne-prone skin since there’s tea tree extract in there too. The stick format’s kinda cool, you just twist it up and swipe it on so it’s easy to throw in your bag or whatever. Works well for oily skin and clearing out pores, and the alcohol’s not too high up so it shouldn’t dry you out too bad. My issue? The whole stick thing is terrible for the environment. It’s single-use plastic that you’re gonna toss after like a month, and there’s no way to recycle it. If you care about that stuff it’s gonna bug you. Performance-wise they’re solid but yeah, not exactly eco-friendly. Wish they’d just put this in a regular bottle honestly.
Available at: Soko Glam
Active ingredients: Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and lactic acid.
Benefits: Exfoliates skin, brightens the complexion, and unclogs pores.
Cons: Not eco-friendly.
Skin type: All skin types bar sensitive.
Fragrance-free: Technically yes. But it contains some plant extracts that make it smell good – and could potentially irritate sensitive skin.
NATURIUM BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2% ($19.00)
Love this one. It’s got actual salicylic acid at 2% which is a solid concentration: enough to actually do something for acne-prone skin and clogged pores without destroying your face. The ingredient list is pretty clean, no random essential oils or irritating shit, just the BHA and some nice extracts. It’s a liquid so you can control how much you’re using, and it absorbs fast without feeling sticky. Good for oily skin and dealing with excess sebum, helps with dark spots over time too. This is what a chemical exfoliant should be: straightforward, effective, no nonsense. If you want a BHA that actually works and doesn’t mess around with derivatives or crazy low concentrations, this is it.
Available at: Boots, Soko Glam, SpaceNK and Ulta
Active ingredients: Salicylic acid.
Benefits: Exfoliates skin and unclogs pores.
Cons: Can irritate skin if you abuse it.
Skin type: Oily, acne-prone, and combination skin.
Fragrance-free: Yes.
HANSKIN Real Complexion Hyaluron Exfoliating AHA Treatment ($27.00)
This one’s solid for dry skin: it’s got glycolic acid and lactic acid up front so you know you’re getting actual AHAs, not just tiny amounts buried at the bottom. Plus there’s like a million types of hyaluronic acid in here so it’s exfoliating but also hydrating, which is clutch if chemical exfoliants usually make your face feel tight. Good for dull skin, uneven skin tone, fine lines, all that. The panthenol’s nice for calming things down too. Only complaint is the bergamot oil and orange peel oil at the end. I get they make it smell nice but citrus oils can irritate your skin, especially when you’re using active ingredients that make your skin’s surface more sensitive. Not a huge amount in there but still annoying. Would be better without them but it’s not a dealbreaker if your skin doesn’t freak out at essential oils.
Available at: Soko Glam, Stylevana, Ulta, and Yes Style
Active ingredients: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, and hyaluronic acid.
Benefits: Exfoliates, hydrates, and brightens.
Cons: Contains irritating essential oils.
Skin type: Normal and dry skin.
Fragrance-free: Technically yes. But it contains essential oils that makes it smell good – and may irritate sensitive skin.
FAQs
Can I use Korean chemical exfoliators every day?
Depends on your skin and what you’re using. While I never recommend daily exfoliation, some are so gentle, you could (because they don’t really exfoliate much!) . If you’ve got sensitive skin types or you’ve never used chemical exfoliants before, start with like 2-3 times a week and see what happens. If your face gets angry, do it less.
What’s the difference between all these acids?
AHAs work on your skin’s surface – good for dryness, fine lines, making you look less dead. BHAs go into your pores – good for acne and oily skin. PHAs are the gentle ones for sensitive skin. That’s basically it.
Will this actually help with dark spots?
Yeah probably, but not fast. Chemical exfoliation speeds up skin cell turnover so dark spots fade quicker. Things like mandelic acid and glycolic acid help with uneven skin tone. But we’re talking weeks or months, not days. And wear sunscreen because exfoliating makes you more sensitive to sun.
What if my skin’s sensitive?
Get something with PHAs or lower concentrations and lots of centella asiatica extract or other soothing ingredients. Real Cica Pads are pretty gentle. Just test it on a small spot first and don’t go crazy right away.
What’s betaine salicylate?
It’s basically salicylic acid’s weaker cousin. Korean products use it instead of the real thing because it’s less irritating, but that also means it doesn’t work as hard. It can still get in your pores and help with breakouts and oily skin, just not as well as actual salicylic acid. If regular salicylic acid makes your face angry, try this. If you’ve got serious acne though, you probably need the stronger shit.
Do I still need physical exfoliators?
Nah not really. Chemical ones dissolve the dead skin cells so you don’t have to scrub at your face. Physical exfoliants can mess up your skin if you go too hard, and if you’ve got acne they can spread bacteria around which sucks. If you love using a scrub sometimes and your skin’s fine with it, cool, just don’t do it the same day as your chemical exfoliant or you’ll wreck your face.
Can I use this with my other stuff?
Usually yeah but don’t go crazy. Like vitamin C in the morning and exfoliant at night is usually fine. But if you’re doing vitamin C AND retinol AND a strong exfoliant all at once, your skin’s gonna be pissed. Space things out. I recommend alternating exfoliation and retinoids in the evening. Honestly finding the right one is just trial and error. But Korean products are usually forgiving enough that you probably won’t totally wreck your face even if you pick wrong. Just start slow and see what happens.
The Bottom Line
Look, Korean chemical exfoliators aren’t magic. They’re usually gentler with lower concentrations and calming stuff mixed in, which is cool if your skin’s sensitive or you want something for regular use. But gentler doesn’t mean better if it doesn’t actually work. A lot of them use weak derivatives instead of real acids or bury the good stuff at the bottom of the ingredient list. You gotta read what’s actually in there instead of just buying whatever’s blowing up on TikTok.
If you’ve got serious acne-prone skin or dark spots or your skin texture’s rough, you might need stronger shit. If you just want gentle exfoliation for maintenance and that radiant skin glow, Korean ones work fine. Just match the acids to what your skin actually needs – AHAs for dull skin and dry skin, BHAs for oily skin and clogged pores, PHAs if everything pisses your face off. And skip products with random essential oils that just irritate your skin barrier for no reason.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
