Everyone’s out here arguing about azelaic acid vs retinol like it’s some kind of death match, and you’re just trying to figure out what the hell to put on your face. One person swears azelaic acid is the secret to fixing acne-prone skin, another says retinol is the only way to smooth out skin texture and fine lines, and meanwhile you’re stuck with a bathroom shelf full of crap you’re not even sure works.
That’s why we’re doing this and comparing these two powerhouse ingredients. I’m not giving you the polished “dermatologist approved” rundown. I’m giving you the friend version. What these two active ingredients actually do, how they really feel on your skin, whether you should bother with both or just pick one, and the best skincare products to add to your skincare routine. No fluff, no textbook science, just the straight-up truth.
Azelaic Acid: What It Is, Benefits, And Side Effects
WHAT IT IS
Azelaic acid isn’t as scary as it sounds. Your skin actually makes a bit of it on its own (weird, right? it comes from a yeast that already lives on your face). Part of the dicarboxylic acid family, it also shows up in grains like wheat and barley, but no one’s out here rubbing bread on their skin – the stuff in bottles is made in a lab so it’s clean and strong enough to work. Point is: it’s not some crazy chemical. It’s just a chill ingredient that fights zits, fades dark marks, and takes the redness down a notch without wrecking your skin.
BENEFITS
Let’s talk about the benefits of azelaic acid for common skin conditions for a second:
So yeah, it’s not flashy, but it quietly handles a lot of the annoying stuff.
Related: Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Azelaic Acid But Were Too Afraid To Ask
SIDE EFFECTS
Compared to retinol, azelaic acid is basically drama-free and way less likely to cause skin irritation. Most people can use it every day and be fine. The side effects of azelaic acid are pretty mild: a bit of tingling, maybe some potential dryness or flaking when you first start. Studies even show that higher concentrations (like 20%) are still super well tolerated.
BEST PICKS
- Facetheory Blemicalm Azelaic Acid 15% Clarifying Serum (£26.00): Loaded with 15% Azelaic acid and colloidal oatmeal, it helps treat acne, soothe irritations, and lighten dark spots. Available at Facetheory
- Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): It includes a touch of Salicylic Acid to unclog pores too. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, andSpaceNK
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12.20): A simple, no-frills formula that just works without breaking the bank. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Retinol: What It Is, Benefits, And Side Effects
WHAT IT IS
Retinol is just vitamin A dressed up for skincare. When you slap it on, your skin converts it into retinoic acid (the prescription-strength stuff) – and that’s when the magic happens. Retinoic acid bosses your cells around: “Turn over faster, make more collagen, stop acting old and lazy.” That’s why derms call it the gold standard. It’s not sitting on the surface, it’s changing things underneath.
BENEFITS
SIDE EFFECTS
Here’s the messy part: your skin usually freaks out at first. The side effects of retinol are dryness, peeling, redness – totally normal in the first month or so. That’s called “retinization.” It also makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so SPF isn’t optional, it’s law. And if you’re pregnant or dealing with super-sensitive/eczema skin, derms usually say skip it.
Related: Why You Should Keep Using Retinol (Even If It Makes You Breakout)
BEST PICKS
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion ($12.10): This simple formula contains both retinol and granactive retinoid, a new form of retinoid that’s great at treating acne. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
- Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): A high dose retinol serum infused with antioxidants to help you fight premature aging. You can use it on its own for maximum effect. If that’s too irritating for your skin, mix a couple of drops with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, and Paula’s Choice, and SpaceNK
- Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With Retinol ($39.00): This serum has a tiny dose of retinol that’s suitable for beginners. Plus, it’s infused with any antioxidants you can think of. Available at Dermstore and Paula’s Choice
Azelaic Acid VS Retinol For Acne And Breakouts: Which One Is Better?
Let’s be real – acne is where everyone wants a miracle, and both of these ingredients get thrown around like they’re the magic bullet. But here’s the deal: they don’t fight breakouts the same way.
Azelaic acid is like the chill bouncer outside the club. It doesn’t just kick out the acne-causing bacteria, it also keeps things calm so your face doesn’t look like it’s throwing a tantrum. If your breakouts are red, swollen, and straight-up angry, azelaic acid helps tone that down. It also clears out the dead skin that tries to camp in your pores without being harsh about it. And the best part? You can usually use it every day without your skin barrier freaking out.
Retinol is more like the personal trainer who whips your skin into shape whether you’re ready or not. It speeds up turnover, unclogs pores, and makes it harder for breakouts to even form. Long-term, it’s stronger, and derms love it because it works across both clogged-pore acne and those deep under-the-skin bumps. But here’s the messy part: when you first start, your skin usually stages a protest – peeling, purging, dryness, irritation. It’s like a breakup before the glow-up.
The verdict: If you want gentle but steady progress – especially if your skin leans sensitive – azelaic acid is easier to live with. If you’re ready for a rough start but stronger results down the road, retinol takes the crown.
Azelaic Acid VS Retinol For Pigmentation: Which One Is Better?
Spots suck. Acne marks, melasma, random patches that just won’t fade – they always stick around longer than you want. Both azelaic acid and retinol can help, but they do it in different ways.
Azelaic acid is like slamming the brakes on pigment. It literally tells your skin to chill with the melanin production, so the marks you already have don’t get darker and new ones don’t show up as fast. That’s why derms hand it out for melasma – it’s not perfect, but it’s one of the few things that doesn’t make sensitive skin lose its mind.
Retinol, on the other hand, doesn’t stop pigment from forming. What it does is speed up how fast your skin pushes out the cells that are already loaded with pigment. So yeah, the spots fade, but it’s slower, and you have to put up with the peeling and dryness along the way. If your skin doesn’t tolerate much, that “in-between” stage can look worse before it looks better.
The verdict: If your spots are mostly from acne or melasma, azelaic acid is the easier, gentler win. If you can handle some irritation and want brighter skin overall, retinol pulls ahead.
Azelaic Acid vs Retinol for Anti-Aging: Which One Is Better?
This one’s not really a fair fight. Retinol basically owns the anti-aging category. Retinol is the diva every derm won’t shut up about, and for good reason. It pushes your skin cells to act younger – more collagen, faster turnover, smoother surface, reduces appearance of fine lines. It’s not marketing fluff, it’s actual science. The tradeoff? Retinol makes most people peel, flake, or feel dry as hell in the beginning. But if you stick with it, the payoff is real: fewer wrinkles, firmer skin, a smoother vibe overall.
Azelaic acid just doesn’t play in this league. It can even out tone and keep your skin calm, sure, but it’s not going to erase crow’s feet or boost collagen. If you’re only looking at anti-aging, it’s basically background support while retinol does the heavy lifting.
The verdict: Retinol wins hard here, but it’s also the high-maintenance option. If your skin can’t deal with irritation, azelaic acid won’t hurt, but it’s not the one carrying you through anti-aging.
Azelaic Acid VS Retinol For First-Time Users: Which One Is Better?
If you’ve never touched an active before, here’s the truth: you’ll probably get along with azelaic acid way better than retinol. Azelaic acid is forgiving. You can usually put it on once a day, sometimes even twice, and the worst you’ll get is some mild tingling or a little dryness in the first week. It’s steady, easy, and won’t torch your skin barrier. If you’re brand new to skincare, it’s the ingredient that builds your confidence because it actually works without punishing you for trying.
Retinol, on the other hand, is like jumping into the deep end without floaties. It’s powerful, but it comes with peeling, redness, purging – all the stuff that makes people quit before they ever see results. If you don’t know how to pace yourself, retinol will chew up your face and leave you swearing off actives forever.
The verdict: For beginners, azelaic acid is the winner. Actually, for all sensitive skin types, azelaic acid is the winner too. Retinol is better saved for when you’ve already got your basics down and you know how to support your skin through the adjustment period.
Azelaic Acid VS Retinol In Pregnancy: Which One Is Better?
This one’s easy. Retinol? Nope. Anything in the retinoid family is off-limits when you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Doesn’t matter if it’s a cream or a pill – doctors avoid it because too much vitamin A has been linked to birth defects. So yeah, retinol goes back in the drawer until later.
Azelaic acid is the one you can actually keep using. Derms give it out all the time for pregnancy acne or melasma because it’s safe, gentle, and still does the job. Breakouts calm down, spots fade, skin stays even – and you don’t have to stress about it messing with the baby.
The verdict: Winner for pregnancy? Azelaic acid, no contest.
Related: The Complete List Of Ingredients You Shouldn’t Use During Pregnancy
The Bottom Line
So here’s the truth: even though they target similar skin concerns, there isn’t one winner across the board. Retinol is the powerhouse – it clears pores, smooths wrinkles, evens skin over time, and has all the receipts to back it up. But it’s also high-maintenance, irritating, and not exactly beginner-friendly. Azelaic acid is the chill option – fights acne, fades marks, calms redness, and plays nice with sensitive skin. It won’t rebuild collagen, but it’ll keep your skin looking clear and even without the drama.
If you’ve got tough skin and want the big guns for aging and texture, retinol is worth the hassle. If your skin is reactive, red, or you’re just starting out with actives, azelaic acid is the safe, steady choice. And honestly? The real magic happens when you use both on alternate nights – one keeps things calm, the other pushes for the glow-up. That way you get the best of both worlds without torching your skin barrier.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
