Is Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule 5X a dupe for Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum? That’s the question skincare lovers have been asking for years, and honestly, it’s easy to see why. One’s a luxury icon that’s been around since the ’80s with a price tag that’ll make your wallet flinch, and the other’s a K-beauty favourite promising similar results for a fraction of the cost. So, let’s break down what’s hype, what’s fact, and whether you can really swap one for the other without your skin noticing.
What Ingredients Do These Serums Have In Common?
BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE TO STRENGTHEN YOUR SKIN’S BARRIER
Both Missha and Estee Lauder have chosen bifida ferment lysate as their star ingredient. It’s a probiotic that helps maintain microflora in the GI tract. But what does it do for skin? Studies show that using 10% Bifida Ferment Lysate to sensitive skin that reacts to anything helps to strengthen its protective barrier and decrease skin sensitivity.
Makes sense. Your skin’s barrier is your first layer of protection from harsh weather, irritating skincare products, toxic pollutants, and anything else that’s trying to harm it. The stronger your barrier is, the less likely something is to breach it and irritate you. I doubt there’s 10% in these serums. But even a smaller amount will do something.
Related: The Truth About Probiotics In Skincare: Do They Really Work?
HYALURONIC ACID TO HYDRATE SKIN
Sodium Hyaluronate is a form of Hyaluronic Acid. It’s a humectant that attracts, and binds, to the skin up to 1000 times its weight in water. That means it’s extremely hydrating, and a great help in keeping skin softer and plumper. Oh, and it works well both in high and low humidity conditions. You could live in the middle of Siberia or the Sarah, and it’d still do wonders for your skin.
Related: Why You Need Hyaluronic Acid In Your Skincare Routine, No Matter Your Skin Type
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What Else Is In These Serums?
NOTE: The colours indicate the effectiveness of an ingredient. It is ILLEGAL to put toxic and harmful ingredients in skincare products.
- Green: It’s effective, proven to work, and helps the product do the best possible job for your skin.
- Yellow: There’s not much proof it works (at least, yet).
- Red: What is this doing here?!
ESTEE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR SERUM
- Water (Aqua/Eau): The boring but essential base. Every other ingredient in here is dissolved into it so it can actually spread over your face instead of clumping. Doesn’t do anything for your skin besides being the delivery system, but without it, this would be a weird paste.
- PEG-8: A small, water-loving molecule that pulls moisture into your skin. Think of it like a magnet for hydration. It also makes the texture smoother.
- Propanediol: Works double-duty: keeps the formula from drying out in the bottle and also helps the active ingredients sink in better.
- Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane: A silky-feel silicone derivative that makes the serum glide on like a dream. It also locks in moisture by forming a breathable film. Not the pore-clogging type of silicone, so don’t panic.
- Methyl Gluceth-20: A sugar-based humectant that hydrates without leaving your face tacky.
- Glycereth-26: Another heavy-hitting hydrator that helps skin feel soft for hours. It’s like glycerin’s chill cousin-still effective, but lighter in feel.
- PEG-75: Another humectant/texture helper. Keeps formulas smooth and prevents separation.
- Butylene Glycol: Basically the “everything helper” in skincare. Dissolves actives, keeps the texture nice, helps hydration.
- Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract: Comes from baobab seeds. Rich in omega fatty acids and antioxidants that can soften skin and offer some protection against free radicals. The science isn’t as rock-solid as vitamin C or E, but it’s a nice supportive ingredient.
- Tripeptide-32: A lab-created peptide that supposedly talks to your skin cells to help with nighttime repair. There’s some research on peptides being beneficial, but this specific one? Most info comes from the brand itself.
- Yeast Extract (Faex): Packed with amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that can help condition skin. Some claim it helps with firmness and brightness, but the science is pretty light.
- Lactobacillus Ferment: Another probiotic ferment. May help calm irritation and keep your skin barrier strong. Promising, but still in the “needs more proof” category for skincare.
- Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract: Naturally contains caffeine and theobromine, which can perk up skin and help with puffiness. Not going to give you a facelift, but it can make skin look a little fresher.
- Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract: The skin-soothing champ. Helps with redness and irritation-unless you’re allergic to ragweed, in which case it can make things worse.
- Hydrolyzed Algin: Comes from brown algae. Acts as a film-former to lock in moisture and give skin a smoother feel. Not a game-changer, but nice in a supporting role.
- Pantethine: Related to vitamin B5. Believed to help with skin repair and softness, though hard clinical evidence in topical products is limited.
- Caffeine: Helps reduce puffiness by constricting blood vessels and acts as an antioxidant. The effects are temporary. Good for mornings, but not a long-term solution.
- Lecithin: A fat that helps soften and smooth skin while also making the formula more stable. Safe and nourishing.
- Sodium RNA: A skin-conditioning ingredient. Claims it supports cell renewal, but the research for topical use is slim.
- Bisabolol: A soothing, anti-inflammatory compound from chamomile. Great for calming redness and irritation.
- Squalane: A lightweight, non-greasy oil that mimics your skin’s natural sebum. Excellent for locking in moisture without clogging pores.
- Glycerin: The hydration MVP. Pulls water into your skin and keeps it there. Cheap, effective, and safe.
- Oleth-3 Phosphate: An emulsifier that helps water and oil mix together in the formula. Not something your skin will notice directly.
- Caprylyl Glycol: Works as both a moisturiser and a preservative booster.
- Oleth-3: Emulsifier.
- Oleth-5: Similar to Oleth-3. Keeps the formula stable and blended.
- Choleth-24: Another emulsifier/texture helper. Completely inert on the skin.
- Hydrogenated Lecithin: More stable form of lecithin. Locks in hydration and supports the skin barrier.
- Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters: Adds slip and smoothness, gives that “soft focus” feel to the skin.
- Ceteth-24: Emulsifier.
- Tocopheryl Acetate: A more stable form of vitamin E. Protects against free radicals, but less potent than pure vitamin E.
- Carbomer: A thickener that makes the serum feel like, well, serum instead of water.
- Triethanolamine: Balances the pH so the formula doesn’t sting.
- Tetrasodium EDTA: Prevents metal ions in the water from messing with the formula.
- BHT: An antioxidant that stops the product from spoiling.
- Xanthan Gum: A natural gum that thickens formulas.
- Potassium Sorbate: Preservative that stops mould and bacteria.
- Disodium EDTA: Same as Tetrasodium EDTA, just a slightly different version.
- Phenoxyethanol: Preservative that stops nasties from growing in your skincare.
- Red 4 (CI 14700): Synthetic colourant. Can cause allergies in rare cases.
- Yellow 5 (CI 19140): Another synthetic colour. Same allergy caveat as Red 4.
MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION NIGHT REPAIR AMPOULE 5X
- Butylene Glycol: The skincare equivalent of duct tape. It does a little bit of everything. It keeps the product from drying out in the bottle, makes the texture nice and smooth, helps other ingredients dissolve, and adds a bit of hydration. Most people’s skin doesn’t even notice it’s there, but if you have eczema or hypersensitive skin, it can sometimes make things feel a little tingly.
- Glycerin: If skincare had a hall of fame, glycerin would be front and center. It’s one of the most proven, dependable hydrators out there: pulls water into your skin and keeps it there so you stay plump and smooth. It works for literally every skin type, doesn’t clog pores, and plays well with all other ingredients.
- Propanediol: Think of this as a little chauffeur for the rest of the formula. It helps the fancy actives sink deeper into your skin. It’s also a humectant, so it adds a touch of moisture too.
- Betaine: This one’s naturally found in things like sugar beets and is basically a skin-soothing, moisture-locking little cushion. Helps your skin feel softer and less tight, and it’s super gentle.
- Water: The main “filler” ingredient in almost all serums. It’s here so everything else can dissolve and spread easily.
- Niacinamide: A total overachiever of the skincare world. This brightens dark spots, smooths texture, helps control oil production, strengthens your barrier, and even helps reduce redness. There’s loads of research backing it up. The only caveat? If it’s in super high amounts, it can make very sensitive skin flush or feel itchy-but that’s rare.
- Pentylene Glycol: A lightweight hydrator that also boosts the effectiveness of preservatives. Won’t give you a wow-factor glow on its own, but it makes the rest of the formula more stable and skin-friendly.
- 1,2-Hexanediol: Another behind-the-scenes helper that works as a preservative and mild hydrator. It’s not here to be a star ingredient. It’s here to keep mold and bacteria far, far away from your serum.
- Diethoxyethyl Succinate: An emollient that helps make the texture feel smooth and spreadable.
- Chondrus Crispus Extract: This is red algae, aka Irish moss. It forms a soft, flexible film on your skin to lock in moisture and make things feel smoother.
- Squalane: Light, non-greasy oil that’s almost identical to the oils your own skin makes. It’s incredible for barrier repair, locking in hydration, and making skin feel silky. It’s safe for all skin types, even oily and acne-prone.
- Panthenol: Vitamin B5 in its most skin-friendly form. Calms redness, helps wounds and irritation heal faster, and gives a nice moisture boost.
- Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate: An emulsifier that keeps the oil and water parts of the serum mixed together so you don’t end up with a separated, gloopy mess.
- Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract: A natural source of glycolic acid, but here it’s probably in such a tiny concentration that it’s more about hydration and giving a soft glow than true exfoliation.
- Hydrogenated Lecithin: A stable, fatty substance that’s great for moisturising and helping repair the skin barrier. It’s like a patch kit for rough or dehydrated skin.
- Carbomer: A thickener that gives the serum that smooth, gel-like feel.
- Tromethamine: Adjusts the pH so the serum feels nice on your skin and doesn’t sting.
- Xanthan Gum: A natural thickener from fermentation. Gives a little slip to the texture, keeps it from feeling watery.
- Polyquaternium-51: Creates a thin, breathable film on your skin to keep moisture from escaping.
- Ethylhexylglycerin: Works as both a skin conditioner and a preservative booster.
- Adenosine: Has legit research showing it can smooth fine lines and help with skin repair.
- Dextrin: Mostly here as a texture stabiliser.
- Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract: Full of antioxidants that help protect your skin from free radicals.
- Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil: Gives a fresh, uplifting scent, but it can be irritating or photosensitising for sensitive skin, especially if you use it before sun exposure.
- Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that stops minerals in the water from messing with the formula.
- Lactobacillus Ferment: Another probiotic ferment aimed at soothing and barrier repair. Evidence is promising but not yet bulletproof.
- Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate: Similar to above but broken down more, potentially making it easier for your skin to use.
- Bifida Ferment Filtrate: Related to bifida ferment lysate, with slightly different composition. Same basic benefits: barrier support, calming, hydration.
- Lactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment: Fermented vitamin C-rich fruit. Likely here for antioxidants and brightening, though the fermenting process means you’re not getting the same punch as pure vitamin C.
- Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract: Fermented pomegranate. Brings antioxidants and polyphenols, but in a gentle way.
- Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract: Fermented soy, potentially helps with skin smoothness and even tone.
- Lactococcus Ferment: Another probiotic for barrier support.
- Lactococcus Ferment Lysate: Lysate form, same probiotic story, possibly easier for skin to process.
- Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate: Natural preservative that’s surprisingly hydrating.
- Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil: Geranium oil. Smells floral and fresh, but can be irritating for reactive skin.
- Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract: Source of betaine and antioxidants. Mostly here for hydration support.
- Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract: Contains vitamins and antioxidants.
- Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract: Antioxidant-rich and contains carotenoids, which can help with skin protection.
- Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract: Has antioxidants, but not much research on direct skin benefits.
- Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract: Packed with antioxidants to help fight environmental damage.
- Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil: Nourishing oil rich in fatty acids that support your barrier and keep skin soft.
- Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil: Fragrant oil that smells fresh but can be irritating or sensitising for some skin types.
- Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil: Calming scent, but can be irritating to sensitive skin despite its “relaxing” reputation.
- Lupinus Albus Seed Extract: Claimed to help with firmness and elasticity, though there’s not a mountain of data.
- Aspergillus Ferment: Ferment that may help with brightening and antioxidant protection.
- Swiftlet Nest Extract: Yep, from actual bird nests. Supposedly hydrates and repairs skin, but most of the “evidence” is from brand marketing.
- Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil: Chamomile oil. Soothing, anti-inflammatory, but can cause allergies in those sensitive to related plants.
- Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil: Fragrant oil with mild anti-inflammatory properties, but still a potential irritant for sensitive skin.
- Tocopherol: Pure vitamin E. Strong antioxidant that protects against free radical damage and helps oils in the formula last longer.
- Ceramide NP: One of the key lipids your skin naturally makes. Essential for repairing a damaged barrier and locking in hydration.
- Cholesterol: Another lipid your skin barrier needs. Works with ceramides to keep your skin strong, flexible, and hydrated.
WHICH FORMULA IS BETTER?
Missha basically takes Estée Lauder’s core idea and turns the volume all the way up. You’re not just getting the same hero ingredient (Bifida Ferment Lysate). You’re getting a whole lineup of ferments: lactobacillus in multiple forms, acerola cherry ferment, pomegranate ferment, soybean ferment, radish root ferment… it’s like a microbiome buffet.
On top of that, they’ve loaded it with niacinamide (brightening, oil control, barrier boosting), ceramide NP and cholesterol (the dream team for repairing and strengthening your skin barrier), and a huge range of antioxidants from blueberry, pomegranate, carrot, beet, cocoa, cabbage, and more. That’s hydration, protection, repair, and glow in one bottle – and at a fraction of the price.
P.S. Here’s the caveat: Missha also has way more ingredients. That means that if your skin is sensitive and reactive, the Missha serum is more likely to irritate your skin.
What’s The Texture Like?
Missha’s texture is richer and silkier, thanks to all the oils, lecithin, and ferments. It feels nourishing straight away, with just enough slip that you can really massage it in before it sinks down. You get that “my skin’s had a drink” feeling without greasiness, and it plays well under a moisturiser.
Estée Lauder, on the other hand, is lighter and more watery. It disappears into the skin almost instantly, which makes it perfect for layering in a multi-step routine, but it doesn’t give that same immediate plush, cushy feel you get from Missha.
What’s The Fragrance Like?
This is where they’re totally different. Missha smells herbal-floral with a citrus edge from the bergamot, lavender, geranium, and orange peel oils – noticeable when you apply it and it lingers a bit before fading. Lovely if you’re into essential oils, a potential dealbreaker if you’re not.
Estée Lauder skips added fragrance entirely, but you still get a faint “ferment” scent from the bifida and yeast extracts. It’s subtle, clean, and gone within seconds.
What’s The Packaging Like?
Both come in solid glass bottles with droppers, but the vibes are different. Missha’s has a gradient purple-to-amber finish that looks luxe and modern, while Estée Lauder sticks with its classic deep amber-brown and gold – instantly recognisable and a bit old-school luxury. Functionally, both droppers work well, though Missha’s slightly wider dropper makes it easier to accidentally grab more than you need, whereas Estée Lauder’s feels more precise.
How To Use Them
With Missha, because it’s a bit richer, you can get away with using it as your only serum step at night if you don’t want to layer a ton. Apply 2-3 drops onto slightly damp skin (damp helps all those humectants pull in water) and press it in rather than rubbing – it helps all the ferments and niacinamide settle without pilling. If you’re using exfoliating acids or retinoids, do those first, then follow with Missha so it can do its calming, repairing thing after the stronger stuff.
With Estée Lauder, the watery texture means it disappears fast, so you can use it morning and night without worrying about it feeling heavy under makeup or sunscreen. Use a dropper-full after cleansing and toning, then layer whatever other serums or actives you like on top – it’s thin enough that it won’t interfere. It’s especially nice under a richer cream at night if your main goal is hydration and barrier repair.
Related: What Skincare Products Should You Only Use In The Evening?
Which Of The Two Should You Go For?
If you want the serum that’s going to give you the most in one bottle, go for Missha. It’s got niacinamide for brightening, ceramides and cholesterol for barrier repair, a huge variety of antioxidant-rich fruit and veggie extracts, and more probiotic ferments than Estée Lauder could dream of. It’s basically hydration, glow, and skin-strengthening all in one – and it costs way less. The only catch? It’s loaded with essential oils, so if your skin is sensitive to fragrance, you’ll want to tread carefully.
Estée Lauder, while iconic, is simpler. It’s fragrance-free, lightweight, and gentle – great if you want something that’ll quietly hydrate and repair without clashing with other actives in your routine. But if your skin can handle fragrance and you like the idea of getting brightening, antioxidant defense, and barrier repair from one product, Missha’s the clear winner here.
Price & Availability
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule 5X ($17.30-54.00): Sokoglam, Stylevana, Superdrug and Yes Style
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum ($55.00-$258.00): Estée Lauder, Look Fantastic, Sephora, Superdrug, and Ulta
Is Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule 5X A Dupe For Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum?
No, Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule 5X isn’t a dupe for Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum. It’s better for those who are concerned about anti-aging. But if you have sensitive skin, Estee Lauder is still the gentler option.
Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex
WaterAquaEau, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Peg-8, Propanediol, Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Peg-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Yeast ExtractFaexExtrait De Levure, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax Peg-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium Edta, Bht, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Red 4 (Ci 14700), Yellow 5 (Ci 19140)
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule [Gold]
Bifida Ferment Lysate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Water, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Squalane, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactococcus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
