If you’ve been scrolling through Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser reviews trying to figure out if this thing is actually worth the hype, you’re in the right place. Look, sensitive skin is exhausting, and finding a cleanser that doesn’t make your face angry is genuinely hard. This one promises to be gentle enough for reactive skin while still actually getting your face clean, which honestly sounds too good to be true. So I’m breaking down what’s actually in the bottle, what the science says, and whether this cleanser can really calm your skin down or if it’s just another overhyped product that’ll disappoint you.
Key Ingredients In Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser: What Makes It Work?
THE CLEANSING AGENTS
Okay so here’s the deal: this cleanser needs to actually clean your face without being harsh about it. Dermalogica skipped the aggressive sulfates and went with two way gentler options that won’t leave your skin feeling like sandpaper.
- Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate: This is a mild cleansing thing from coconut oil, and yeah it sounds like SLS but it’s actually part of a completely different family that’s way gentler. It works by messing with water’s surface tension so it can grab oil and dirt off your face without being aggressive.
- Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate: This one’s pulling double duty: it cleans but also conditions so your skin feels soft instead of tight and awful.
FYI, you’ll find these ingredients at the bottom of the ingredient list. There’s enough of them to do the cleansing job – as long as you wear minimal makeup. A full face? Nah!
THE SOOTHING AGENTS
These are the ingredients actually calming your skin down while you wash. There’s legit research behind all of them, which is refreshing because most “calming” products just throw in some chamomile and call it a day.
- Bisabolol: Honestly one of my favorites and there’s real research backing it up. It comes from chamomile and it’s a proven anti-inflammatory. Multiple studies show it reduces redness and irritation, including UV-induced redness. It works by shutting down inflammatory mediators in your skin. And it’s high up on the ingredient list here so there’s actually a meaningful amount working to calm your skin while you cleanse.
- Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract: If your skin’s freaking out, oat extract is like a security blanket. Colloidal oatmeal’s been used forever to soothe irritated skin and science backs it up. Oats have these compounds called avenanthramides that are crazy powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant molecules. Studies show they reduce the release of inflammatory cytokines and histamine – basically all the stuff making your skin red, itchy, and pissed off. The FDA even recognizes colloidal oatmeal as a skin protectant. In this cleanser it’s reinforcing your skin barrier while calming inflammation.
The catch? When you rinse the cleaner off down the drain, you rinse them down the drain too. So their effect is very temporary.
Related: The Best Soothing Ingredients For Sensitive Skin
The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
- Water/Aqua/Eau: The base of everything, the solvent that all the other ingredients dissolve or hang out in. Every cleanser starts with water because it’s what makes the whole thing spreadable and actually rinse off your face.
- Cetearyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol, the good kind that doesn’t dry you out. Gives the cleanser that creamy texture and softens your skin while you wash, plus keeps all the water and oil ingredients mixed together.
- Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract: Ginger extract with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties from compounds like gingerols and shogaols. Protects your skin from oxidative stress and calms irritation, though in a rinse-off product the benefits are limited.
- Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate: Natural preservative from fermented radish root that keeps bacteria and mold out. Gentler than traditional preservatives like parabens, fits the whole non-irritating thing.
- Glycerin: One of the most researched humectants ever-pulls water into your skin and keeps it there. Even though you’re rinsing this off, it prevents that tight stripped feeling by keeping hydration going while you cleanse.
- Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract: Cucumber’s cooling and soothing with some vitamin C and caffeic acid for mild antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Mostly here for that refreshing calming sensation.
- Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract: Raspberry extract has ellagic acid and polyphenols for antioxidant benefits. Nice for free radical protection but you’re washing it off so don’t expect miracles.
- Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract: This one’s a double-edged sword. Beyond smelling nice and having antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, lavender essential oil is actually a known irritant and allergen for a lot of people with sensitive skin. If you’re one of those people who reacts to lavender, this cleanser might cause problems despite all the other calming ingredients.
- Butylene Glycol: Humectant and solvent that helps other ingredients work better and keeps the texture smooth. Has mild antimicrobial properties and enhances the skin-softening effects.
- Pentylene Glycol: Similar vibe to butylene glycol-humectant and preservative booster. Helps with hydration and has antimicrobial properties that keep the formula fresh without harsh preservatives.
- Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid: Another key soothing agent that reduces sensitivity by blocking inflammatory pathways in your skin. Helps prevent irritation during cleansing itself, acting as a buffer between your skin and anything that might piss it off.
- Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract: Here’s another potential irritant. Lemon extract contains citric acid and can be photosensitizing (makes your skin more sensitive to sun) and irritating, especially for sensitive skin. It’s got vitamin C for antioxidant benefits, but citrus extracts are generally not great for reactive skin.
- Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract: Extract from the fumitory plant traditionally used for soothing. Has alkaloids and flavonoids that may help with inflammation, though there’s less modern research on this one.
- Fumaric Acid: This is an AHA but at the pH and concentration here it’s probably just adjusting pH rather than exfoliating. Keeps the formula at a skin-friendly pH so it doesn’t irritate you.
- Echinacea Purpurea Extract: Echinacea offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits with compounds like cichoric acid and polysaccharides that help support your skin barrier and calm reactivity.
- Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: Thickening agent that gives the cleanser its gel texture. Creates that nice creamy feel and keeps all the ingredients evenly mixed.
- Cetrimonium Chloride: Conditioning surfactant that helps detangle and adds to the soft non-stripping feel. Makes sure your skin doesn’t feel tight after washing.
- Salix Alba Bark Extract: Willow bark’s a natural source of salicylates (related to salicylic acid) with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Probably here in small amounts to support soothing rather than exfoliate.
- Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract: Lichen extract with antimicrobial and preservative properties from usnic acid. Helps keep the formula stable while gently protecting your skin.
- Aminomethyl Propanol: pH adjuster that keeps the cleanser at the optimal pH for your skin. Makes sure the formula isn’t too harsh or too alkaline.
- Glyceryl Caprylate: Emollient and preservative booster from glycerin and caprylic acid. Has antimicrobial properties to keep things fresh while softening your skin.
- Disodium EDTA: Chelating agent that binds to metal ions in water and preserves the stability of other ingredients. Prevents the formula from degrading and helps it work better especially in hard water.
- Panthenol: Provitamin B5 that’s a humectant and soothing ingredient. Attracts and holds water in your skin, and even in a rinse-off product it helps with hydration and has anti-inflammatory properties supporting the calming effect.
Texture
One of the best things about this cleanser honestly. It’s this creamy gel that’s thick enough to feel like something but not so thick it just sits there. When you squeeze it out it looks like white cream but once you start rubbing it on your face it turns into this slippery milky thing that slides around easy. No foam which is weird at first but once you get used to it it’s nice. Your face feels like it’s getting a massage instead of being scrubbed. .
Fragrance
There’s definitely a scent, mostly from the lavender. It’s not fake perfume – more like spa vibes. I find it really chill especially at night. But if you’re sensitive to lavender or essential oils this might fuck with you. The scent’s there enough that if lavender pisses your skin off, skip this.
How To Use It
I wet my face with lukewarm water (be careful with warm water, it can be too much for sensitive skin) first. Don’t skip this, it works way better on damp skin. Then I squeeze out about a blueberry size (you don’t need much) and rub it on my face in circles. Maybe 30-60 seconds working it in, extra on spots that need it. Then rinse. You can wipe it off with cotton pads too if your skin’s super pissed and you don’t even want water on it. And if you’re wearing makeup – especially heavy or waterproof – you gotta double cleanse. Oil cleanser or micellar water first to break down makeup, then this. This won’t remove a full face of makeup and trying will just annoy you.
Packaging
The packaging pisses me off. It’s a squeeze bottle and the cleanser’s thick so it doesn’t wanna come out. You end up shaking the bottle to get it down, then squeezing multiple times just to get enough. It’s annoying when you’re trying to do your routine fast. The big bottle has a pump which fixes it but the small size you’re stuck with squeeze. They need to make pumps standard.
Performance & Personal Opinion
After using this a while I can say it really does calm and soothe. On days my skin’s reactive or red, this doesn’t make it worse – actually makes it better. My face feels clean but not stripped, soft but not greasy, calm instead of angry. The non-foaming thing was weird at first but I got over it once my skin was happier. But this isn’t heavy duty. If you’re coming home after waterproof mascara, foundation, setting spray, this alone won’t cut it. Great for light makeup, sunscreen, everyday stuff but more than that you need backup. And while it calms my skin it doesn’t do shit for acne – doesn’t make breakouts worse but doesn’t clear them. Just a gentle soothing cleanser, not treatment.
What I Like About Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser
- Actually calms redness: Like for real noticeably calms it, not just doesn’t make it worse but actively soothes
- Doesn’t strip: My skin never feels tight or uncomfortable after which almost never happens
- Works for sensitive skin: No burning no stinging no freaking out even when my skin’s dramatic
- Texture’s really nice: Creamy and cushiony, makes cleansing feel like a mini massage
- pH-balanced: Doesn’t fuck with your barrier which is huge for sensitivity
- Little goes a long way: Only need tiny bit so bottle lasts longer than you’d think
What I DON’T Like About Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser
- Doesn’t remove heavy makeup: If you wear full face this’ll let you down big time
- Packaging sucks: That squeeze bottle’s genuinely annoying
- Has irritants: Lavender and lemon can irritate sensitive skin which is a weird choice in a calming cleanser, if you react to essential oils or citrus this could mess you up
- Not great for oily skin: If your skin’s super oily this might feel too weak
Who Should Use This?
- Perfect if you have sensitive reactive or easily pissed off skin. If you deal with redness, rosacea, or your skin just feels angry all the time this’ll be your friend. Great if you have dry skin that gets stripped by most cleansers or if you’ve had procedures and need something super gentle while you heal. As long as you’re not allergic to any of the plant extracts.
- Good for combination skin or acne-prone skin too if you want something balancing or if your skin’s stressed from weather, pollution, life being a lot.
- Skip if you have really oily skin and need more power or if you want something that removes heavy makeup in one go.
- Skip if you’re sensitive to lavender, lemon, essential oils.
Does Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleanser Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM? | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| Gentle cleansing gel/cream for reactive skin. | True. |
| This pH-balanced, non-foaming cleanser helps calm and cool reactive, sensitised or overprocessed skin. | Well, let’s put it this way. Unless you’re allergic to some of the ingredients, it’s a gentle cleanser that won’t irritate it. Its just the soothing ingredients don’t stay on your skin long enough to treat it. |
| Delicately fortifies skin’s protective barrier without leaving an irritating residue, and easily rinses away or wipes off, making it ideal for sensitive skin. | Mostly true, but it doesn’t fortify your skin’s barrier. It’d need to stay on your skin for longer to do that. |
Price & Availability
$48.00 at Dermalogica, Sephora and SpaceNK
The Verdict: Should You Buy It?
If you have sensitive reactive or red skin and been struggling to find a cleanser that doesn’t make it worse yeah get it. Actually does what it says and even though expensive might save money by stopping you buying a million cleansers that suck. But if you’re broke, have oily skin, need something for heavy makeup skip it. Cheaper gentle cleansers might work just as well (Cetaphil, LRP Toleriane) and if you need makeup removal you need something stronger. For me solid cleanser that does exactly what it should for sensitive skin. Not gonna change your life or clear acne or take off full makeup but cleans your face gently without pissing it off and sometimes that’s all you need.
Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
