“Error: skincare overload! Skincare overload!” Remember when the mere thought of putting acids on your skin made you run in the opposite direction? Now you can’t get enough of them. Glycolic acid. Lactic acid. L-Ascorbic Acid. You’re using all of them and then you’re wondering why your skin’s all dry and flaky all of a sudden… 🙄
Acids are powerful. They work. They give you results. Fast. It’s easy to get addicted. But this is one case where more ISN’T better. Go overboard with acids and you’ll destroy your skin (literally). And I mean literally. Misuses of some acids can destroy your skin’ protective barrier. Once that happens, you’re looking at weeks, sometimes months, of babying your skin back to health. No acids. No actives. Just bland, boring moisturizers and sunscreen. Ask me how I know.
Acids do have a place in your skincare routine. You just need to know how to mix and match them to get the best results without the irritating side effects. I’m here to help. Here’s the complete guide on how to layer acids in your skincare routine:
What Types Of Acids Are Used In Skincare?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
A family of water-soluble exfoliants that work by dissolving the glue that holds skin cells together so they can slough off. With them out of the picture, your skin is softer, smoother and brighter. Plus, they hydrate skin, too. The catch? High concentrations can dry out and irritate skin. The most famous members of the family are glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid.
Now, not all AHAs are created equal. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule, which means it penetrates deepest – great for results, terrible if you overdo it. Lactic acid is bigger and gentler, so it sits more on the surface. Mandelic acid is the gentle giant of the group – even bigger molecules, even gentler, perfect if your skin throws a fit at everything else.
And here’s something nobody tells you: AHAs make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Like, significantly more sensitive. You know how vampires burst into flames? Your skin won’t actually combust, but UV damage happens way faster when you’re using AHAs. Sunscreen isn’t optional – it’s mandatory.
Best picks:
- Paula’s Choice Advanced Smoothing Treatment 10% AHA ($39.00): This super-concentrated exfoliating cocktail contains Glycolic, Lactic, Malic, and Salicylic Acids to smoothen out imperfections, fade away dark spots, and treat acne. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Selfridges, and SpaceNK.
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution: A simple, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant that brightens the complexion and fades away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% ($8.90): A simple Lactic Acid exfoliant enriched with Hyaluronic Acid to exfoliate and hydrate skin at the same time. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
- The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA ($6.80): A basic formula with mandelic acid to exfoliate oily-acne prone skin and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate. Available at Beauty Bay and Ulta.
Related: Glycolic Acid VS Lactic Acid: Which One Should You Use?
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Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
Salicylic acid is the only BHA used in skincare. Unlike AHAs, it’s oil-soluble. This means it does double duty: it exfoliates the surface of the skin AND gets inside the pores, unclogging them from within. Plus, it has one more trick up its sleeve: it has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe redness and irritations.
Here’s why salicylic acid is the holy grail for oily, acne-prone skin: it cuts through oil like nothing else. While AHAs are sitting on the surface doing their thing, salicylic acid dives deep into your pores and clears out all the gunk – dead skin cells, excess sebum, the whole mess.
But don’t make the mistake of thinking more is better. I’ve seen people use a salicylic acid cleanser, followed by a salicylic acid toner, followed by a salicylic acid spot treatment. Then they wonder why their skin is peeling off in sheets. One salicylic acid product per routine is plenty for most people.
Best picks:
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK.
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($29.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty.
Related: Why Salicylic Acid Is The Key To Spot-Free Skin
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is technically a sugar. A super hydrating one. Hyaluronic acid acts like a moisture magnet that attracts water from the air into the skin. It’s so powerful, it binds up to 1000 times its weight in water! All that moisture makes skin softer, plumper and brighter.
Quick reality check: hyaluronic acid isn’t an exfoliating acid. It doesn’t make you peel or purge or any of that stuff. It’s just really, really good at holding onto water. That’s it. That’s the whole job.
And here’s a mistake everyone makes: using hyaluronic acid in a dry environment. If there’s no moisture in the air for it to grab, it’ll pull water from your skin instead.
So if you live in a desert climate or it’s winter and the heating’s blasting, you need to apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin and lock it in with a moisturizer immediately. Otherwise you’re basically drying out your skin with a hydrating product. Ironic, right?
Best picks:
- La Roche Posay Heal B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum (£39.99): A simple, no-frills Hyaluronic Acid serum with Vitamin B5 to soothe redness. Available at Boots and Sephora.
- Niod Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid (£30.00): The most hydrating and plumping serum I’ve tried, it has 13+ forms of Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate every layer of skin. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, and Niod
- Paula’s Choice Resist Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($39.00): A hyaluronic acid serum with ceramides to strengthen the skin’s protective barrier and heal dry skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, and SpaceNK.
- The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (£7.90): A simple formula with Vitamin B5 to soothe and hydrate skin. It’s fragrant-free and suitable for sensitive skin too. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
Related: Hyaluronic Acid Skincare Benefits: Do You Need It?
L-Ascorbic Acid
A weak acid, L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure form of vitamin C. It fights free radicals, brightens skin and boosts collagen. But it’s unstable AF. It goes bad super quickly when exposed to light, heat and air. High concentrations also sting and irritate skin. That’s why lots of people prefer to use Vitamin C derivates. They’re less effective but gentler on the skin and last way longer too.
Let’s talk about that instability for a second. You know how your vitamin C serum starts off clear and then turns brown or orange? That’s oxidation. And oxidized vitamin C doesn’t just stop working – it can actually irritate your skin more. So if your serum’s changed color, chuck it. I don’t care if you bought it last month. It’s done.
The whole “vitamin C in the morning” thing exists for a reason. It boosts your sunscreen’s effectiveness and fights the free radical damage from UV exposure and pollution throughout the day. But if your vitamin C stings like hell, you’re probably using too high a concentration. Start with 10% or lower and work your way up. Your skin doesn’t get bonus points for suffering.
Best Picks:
- MaeLove Glow Booster ($27.95): The cheapest Vitamin C serum in this list, it does everything the others do, but it contains a citrus extract that may be irritating for sensitive skin. Available at Maelove.
- Paula’s Choice C15 Booster ($46.75): It’s enriched with Hyaluronic Acid and glycerin to deeply hydrate skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
- Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($169.00): The original Vitamin C serum, it costs an arm and a leg, but it works wonders and delivers what it promises. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
Related: 5 Anti-Aging Superstars You Should Add To Your Skincare Routine
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
A family of exfoliants that’s as effective as Alpha Hydroxy Acids but with a larger molecular structure. Translation: they exfoliate skin just as well but are less irritating. The most famous members of the family are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
PHAs are the unsung heroes of the acid world. They do everything AHAs do – exfoliate, brighten, smooth – but they’re way less likely to wreck your skin in the process. The bigger molecules mean they can’t penetrate as deep, which sounds like a bad thing but is actually brilliant if your skin’s sensitive.
Plus, PHAs have humectant properties, meaning they actually help your skin hold onto moisture while they exfoliate. So you’re not getting that tight, dry feeling you get with glycolic acid. If you’ve tried AHAs and your skin hated you for it, PHAs are your second chance.
Best Picks:
- The Inkey List PHA Toner ($10.99): Available at Cult Beauty
Retinoid Acid
Retinoic acid is the only form of Vitamin A your body can recognise and use to treat wrinkles. It fights free radicals, speeds up the skin’s natural exfoliating process and boosts the production of collagen. But it’s super harsh on the skin. It can cause severe dryness, peeling and irritation. That’s why it’s prescription only. OTC forms of retinoids, like retinol and retinaldehyde, must be converted into retinoid acid to work their magic. They’re gentler but less effective.
The retinoid peeling phase is real. When you first start using retinoids, your skin might go through a rough patch – literally. Peeling, flaking, redness, the works. This doesn’t mean it’s not working. It means you need to back off on the frequency, load up on moisturizer, and ride it out. Most people freak out and quit right when they’re about to see results.
Also, the whole “retinoids thin your skin” myth? Complete garbage. Retinoids actually thicken the deeper layers of your skin by boosting collagen production. What they do is thin out the dead, thick, crusty outer layer. That’s literally the point.
Best Picks:
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion ($12.10): This simple formula contains both retinol and granactive retinoid, a new form of retinoid that’s great at treating acne. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
- Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): A high dose retinol serum infused with antioxidants to help you fight premature aging. You can use it on its own for maximum effect. If that’s too irritating for your skin, mix a couple of drops with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK
- Peter Thomas Roth Night Infusion PM ($65.00): 1.5% retinol release gradually over a period of several hours to make it gentler on your skin. Has a moisturising squalane base and its fair share of antioxidants. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Peter Thomas Roth, Revolve, and Ulta
Related: What Form Of Retinoids Is Right For You?
How To Layer Acids In Your Skincare Routine
Can You Layer Exfoliating Acids?
This is the number one mistake I see people make in layering acids. Everyone wants to use Pixi Glow or The Ordinary Glycolic 7% Toning Solution but then you’ve heard that lactic acid is the new awesome kid on the skincare block and, wait, I have a few blackheads so why not throw salicylic acid into the mix too?
Because too much exfoliation is gonna strip your skin raw and irritate it as hell. Dead cells are there for a reason: to protect the newer cells that aren’t ready to come to the surface yet. Removing the most superficial layer makes your skin smoother and brighter. Removing all the layers leaves it red and sensitive.For the love of your skin, stop adding all the “cult” exfoliating products into your skin. Just pick the one acid that works for you and stick to that:
- Dry and sun-damaged skin: glycolic acid
- Oily and acne-prone skin: salicylic acid
- Sensitive skin: lactic acid or PHAs
But let’s say that your skin could really benefit from more than one type of acid. Maybe you have oily but sun-damaged skin that needs both glycolic and salicylic acids or it’s dry and sensitive and a combo of AHAs/PHAs suits it better than a high concentration of glycolic acid. What do you do in this case?
I recommend you pick a product that has both types of acids. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00), for example, has both glycolic, lactic and salicylic. These products are formulated so the overall ratio of acids does the exfoliating job without irritating skin.
Layering 3 acid products from The Ordinary may be cheaper but more risky. You may get an overall concentration of acids that’s too strong for your skin, destroy its protective barrier and be left with a red, flaky, painful mess. When it comes to exfoliation, less is more.
Related: AHAs VS BHA: Which One Should You Use?
Can You Layer AHAs, Vitamin C and Retinoids?
So many of you are worried that layering AHAs, vitamin C and retinoids can make them ineffective. This isn’t really an issue. Even when these ingredients work best at different pHs, they never deactivate one another completely to make them useless.
Nope, the real risk here is irritation. If you have sensitive skin, layering AHAs, vitamin C and retinoids is a sure way to get an irritation. But even if your skin is more resistant, it’s best to start slow and introduce these superstars into your skincare routine slowly.
I recommend using vitamin C in the morning under sunscreen (it boosts its effectiveness) and alternative AHAs and retinoids at night. Another trick is to use products that contain two or more of these superstars. Some reason as the acids. They’re formulated to give you the most benefits with the fewer side effects.
Related: Mix And Match: The Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Use Together
Can You Layer Salicylic Acid With Benzoyl Peroxide Or Retinoids?
Benzoyl peroxide is a powerful acne fighter. It kills P.Acnes, the bacteria that causes acne. But it’s harsh on the skin (it’s a killer, after all). It can cause redness, flakiness and peeling. That’s why it’s best to use it as a spot treatment only. As it’s so harsh on its own, it’s not a good idea to use it together with salicylic acid or retinoids. But, that doesn’t mean these two can’t be part of your anti-acne routine, as well.
Just use them at different times. I recommend you put on benzoyl peroxide in the morning and use salicylic acid and retinoids at night. Or you can use salicylic acid every morning and alternate benzoyl peroxide and retinoids at night. Whatever works best for your skin.
Related: Benzoyl Peroxide VS Salicylic Acid: Which One Should You Choose?
Can You Layer Hyaluronic Acid With Other Acids?
Yes! Yes! Yes! You can layer hyaluronic acid with everything. In fact, I recommend you do. Especially if you’re using anti aging superstars like retinol, glycolic acid and Vitamin C. These antiaging superstars are harsh on the skin, leaving it dry and sensitive. Adding hyaluronic acid to your skincare routine helps counteract their drying effects. Hyaluronic acid deeply hydrates skin, leaving it softer and smoother. If your retinol is leaving your skin feeling tight, reach for a hyaluronic acid serum pronto!
The Bottom Line
Look, acids work. But you gotta stop treating your face like you’re trying to see how much it can take before it taps out. Hyaluronic acid? Pile it on with everything, it’s just hydration. Vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, retinoids? Pick one or two and chill. Don’t use three exfoliating acids because TikTok said they’re all must-haves. Don’t slap benzoyl peroxide and retinoids together and wonder why your face is peeling off. Use vitamin C in the morning, alternate your exfoliating stuff at night, and for the love of your skin barrier, wear sunscreen. The difference between actually good skin and a red, angry mess isn’t buying more products – it’s using less of them.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
