Did you know that Vitamin C and water don’t get along? When they’re at the same party, you need to lower the pH to less than 3.5 to get Vitamin C to work (a lower pH = higher risk of irritation). Even then, Vitamin C ain’t happy. Even a few drops of water make it oxidise (i.e. lose effectiveness) faster.
A lot of formulators get around this by using a more stable derivative of Vitamin C, but those usually aren’t as powerful as L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure, water-hating original. Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 took a different approach. Instead of removing the pure form of Vitamin C that’s such a pain to formulate with, it got rid of the water instead. Does this tactic work better? Let’s take a look:
What’s In Indeed Labs Vitamin C24?
L-ASCORBIC ACID TO FIGHT WRINKLES
Two things happen when you use Ascorbic Acid in an water-free (anhydrous) product:
- It remains effective for longer: Water speeds up the oxidisation process, making Vitamin C go bad quickly.
- It penetrates your skin better: Usually if the pH isn’t low enough, Vitamin C won’t work. Water-free products have no pH so Vitamin C can just get in and do its thing.
So, what is this thing? Well, it’s more than one. Ascorbic Acid has a few superpowers:
If you’re worried about anti-aging, you need Vitamin C in your arsenal.
P.S. Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 contains 22% Ascorbic Acid, the same concentration used in studies to measure its ability to boost collagen. Basically, there’s enough here for it to work its magic.
Related: What Does Vitamin C In Skincare Do?
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SODIUM HYALURONATE TO HYDRATE SKIN
Sodium Hyaluronate is a form of Hyaluronic Acid. That’s a humectant that draws moisture from the environment into your skin and binds it there. Sodium Hyaluronate does this particularly well – it can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water! Plus, when applied to dry skin, it settles into wrinkles and swells up. It’s a trick that makes your wrinkles and fine lines look smaller (for a while).
Related: Why You Need Hyaluronic Acid In Your Skincare Routine, No Matter Your Skin Type
SILICONES TO MINIMIZE FINE LINES
Yep, Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 is a silicone based cream. I know, I know. But hear me out before you start hating on silicones. Silicones have a special molecular structure. It’s made up of large molecules with gaps between them. This allows it to create a protective barrier that allows active ingredients to get through and your skin to perspire. Translation: silicones won’t suffocate your skin. I repeat: silicones WON’T suffocate your skin. You know what they do instead? All this:
- Settle into fine lines and wrinkles, making them look smaller
- Smoothen out the complexion
- Make skin feel silky soft to the touch
- Helps the serum spread easily on the skin
Granted, all these benefits are temporary. But there’s enough Vitamin C here to give you the long-term benefits you crave.
Related: Do Silicones Prevent Other Ingredients From Penetrating Your Skin?
The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
NOTE: The colours indicate the effectiveness of an ingredient. It is ILLEGAL to put toxic and harmful ingredients in skincare products.
- Green: It’s effective, proven to work, and helps the product do the best possible job for your skin.
- Yellow: There’s not much proof it works (at least, yet).
- Red: What is this doing here?!
- Ethylhexyl Palmitate: An emollient that makes skin feel smooth and soft. It’s basically a skin-friendly oil that gives slip and spreadability without feeling heavy or greasy.
- Silica Silylate: This one gives the product a mattifying, oil-absorbing effect. It helps keep shine under control while making the texture feel less greasy.
- Silica Dimethyl Silylate: Similar vibe here: it thickens up the formula, gives it a velvety texture, and helps absorb excess oil so your skin doesn’t look like a disco ball by noon.
- Butylene Glycol: A multitasker that draws water into the skin to keep it hydrated, while also helping the other ingredients spread evenly and absorb better.
- Caprylyl Glycol: A skin-conditioning ingredient that softens and hydrates, but also boosts the effectiveness of preservatives in the formula. Basically a 2-in-1 helper.
- Phenoxyethanol: The preservative that keeps the product from going bad or growing bacteria. Without it, your skincare would spoil way too fast.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: The salt form of hyaluronic acid. It pulls water into your skin like a magnet, plumping it up and smoothing out fine lines from dehydration.
- Helyxene Glycol: Likely a typo or trade name (it isn’t a common INCI). But if it’s a type of glycol, it usually works as a humectant to attract water into the skin, keeping things hydrated and comfortable.
Texture
This stuff feels way more like a primer than your typical vitamin C serum. It’s got that silicone-y, silky slip that makes it glide over your skin in one smooth layer. At first, it can feel a little thicker than you’d expect from something with “vitamin C” in the name (since we’re used to watery serums), but once it’s on, it sets into this soft, velvety finish that actually makes your skin look instantly smoother. If you’re oily, you’ll love the mattifying vibe. If you’re super dry, you might want to layer a moisturizer on top because it doesn’t feel hydrating on its own.
Fragrance
Technically, it’s fragrance-free – but don’t expect it to smell like absolutely nothing. Vitamin C always has a bit of a “science-y” scent, kind of metallic, and the silicones mask it just enough so it doesn’t smack you in the face. It’s not perfume-y or lingering, just a faint “lab” smell that disappears pretty quickly after you apply it.
How To Use It
You only need a pea-sized amount – seriously, more than that and it starts to ball up when you rub it in. Smooth it over clean, dry skin in the morning before sunscreen. If your skin is sensitive, maybe start every other day, since the pure ascorbic acid can tingle at first.
Packaging
It comes in a white squeezy tube, nothing fancy, but honestly super practical. No glass bottle to worry about dropping, no pump that gets clogged. Just a straightforward tube that keeps the vitamin C more stable (air and light are what kill vitamin C fast, so this is smart packaging). Plus, it’s small enough to toss in your bag without taking up space.
Performance & Personal Opinion
You can tell Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 is loaded with silicones. The slightly, thick, silky soft texture gives away the secret during the first application. I personally love the feel of silicones on my skin, but I know this is very personal. If you can’t stand it, this is a no-go for you.
The other problem with silicones like Dimethicone? They’re water-repellent. If you apply a water-based moisturiser on top, it tends to ball up (yes, I’ve discovered that the hard way). I get around this by using it in the morning with a facial oil (Inlight Beauty Face Oil, in case you’re interested – review coming soon!). Problem solved!
One more thing: my skin is pretty resilient, but even so, the first couple of times I’ve used this cream, it stung a little bit. That’s totally normal with high concentrations of Vitamin C. I’ve now built it up to daily use, but if your skin is more sensitive than mine, stick to two or three times a week.
FYI, the results are totally worth it: the cream smoothed out my skin and brightened my complexion. Now, it has a lovely radiant glow and looks softer to the touch, too. I don’t have any dark spots, but science has proved that this much Vitamin C can fade them, too.
Even though it’s loaded with Sodium Hyaluronate, I don’t find the formula very hydrating. I use a separate moisturiser (oil, actually), so this isn’t a biggie for me. But Sodium Hyaluronate does help minimise the look of my fine lines so it’s not totally useless. 🙂
Related: What To Do When Your Skincare Products Pill Or Ball Up
What I Like About Indeed Labs Vitamin C24
- It makes my skin feel baby-smooth the second I put it on.
- The Vitamin C is strong enough to actually do something – my skin looks brighter and more even.
- My face has this healthy glow now that wasn’t there before.
- Love that it comes in a simple tube – no fuss, no messy droppers, no worrying about it going bad fast.
- Fine lines look a bit softer, which is always a win.
- Works great with face oils, so I can sneak in some hydration without it turning into a flaky mess.
What I DON’T Like About Indeed Labs Vitamin C24
- If you hate the feel of silicones, this is definitely not for you.
- It can sting a bit the first few uses – not ideal if your skin is on the sensitive side.
- Water-based moisturizers don’t play well with it (hello, pilling).
- Despite the hyaluronic acid, it doesn’t really feel hydrating on its own.
- If you use too much, it balls up like eraser shavings – a total buzzkill.
Who Should Use It?
This is for you if your skin’s looking kinda meh and you want it to look brighter fast. It’s also great if you’ve got uneven tone or little lines you want to smooth out. But honestly, if you hate that slippery silicone feel or your skin throws a tantrum with strong stuff, don’t even bother – you’ll just get annoyed.
Does Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| This combined serum and moisturiser is formulated with 22% L-ascorbic acid (the purest form of vitamin C) and 2% hyaluronic microspheres to help protect your skin from environmental damage while increasing hydration levels to even out skin tone and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles. | True. |
| Unlike other vitamin C serums, vitamin C24 has a unique formula that stays stable, doesn’t oxidize and is designed to optimize absorption into the skin, allowing for maximum vitamin C benefits and potency. | It’s not that unique anymore as other brands are following this approach. Also, its silicones-base slows down the absorption of Vitamin C a little. |
| This moisturising cream leaves your skin brighter, younger and more radiant. | It’s not particularly moisturising, but the rest is true. |
| Reduces the appearance of premature aging, fine lines and wrinkles. | True. |
Price & Availability
$24.99/£24.99 at Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic and Ulta
Do You Need It?
If you’re looking for a water-free Vitamin C cream, this is one of the best out there.
Dimethicone, Ascorbic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Silica Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol. Sodium Hyaluronate, Helyxene Glycol
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
