When I first got into skincare, I thought scrubs were the only way to exfoliate your skin (I know, duh!). Oh, how I loved rubbing those scrubs all over my face – seeing all those dead skin cells come off was so satisfying! But scrubs have a dark side. When I rubbed too enthusiastically, they’d leave my skin red and raw. Ouch!
And the worst part? Over time, scrubs can create micro-tears in your skin. You might not see them, but they can weaken your skin barrier, making you more prone to irritation, breakouts, and dryness. That’s why dermatologists have slowly been moving away from recommending physical scrubs for the face, unless they’re formulated with super fine particles that don’t scratch the surface.
Then, in my mid-20s, I discovered glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant, just like lactic and salicylic acids. They are a bit underwhelming at first because you can’t see the shedding happening. But, it’s happening indeed. And when glycolic acid is done with your skin, it leaves it much smoother and brighter than any scrub can ever do. Plus, it also hydrates skin and boosts the production of collagen. Show me a scrub that can do that. They don’t exist. Needless to say, I excitedly made the switch and never looked back.
This is also where I learned a valuable skincare truth: not all exfoliation has to be visible to be effective. With acids like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic, you might not see flakes falling off, but what you will see is more glow, fewer clogged pores, and better absorption of the rest of your skincare routine. It’s kind of like cleaning the windows. Suddenly everything else looks clearer.
But now there’s a new exfoliating kid on the block. It’s called enzyme exfoliant and uses enzymes derived from foods, such as pineapple and papaya, to get rid of your dead and dull skin cells. So, what’s the deal with them? Are enzyme exfoliants better than chemical exfoliants or shouldn’t we bother with them?
What’s An Exfoliant?
An exfoliant is something that gets rid of dead skin cells:
- Scrubs work like sandpaper, buffing away those cells manually at the surface. Think of them like taking a Brillo pad to your skin.
- Chemical exfoliants dissolve the “glue” that hold skin cells together, so they can slough off. It’s like using a smart cleaning spray that melts the dirt off.
- Enzyme exfoliants are like having tiny Pac-Men munch away at the dead skin proteins. They’re similar to chemical exfoliants, but do some things differently (and not always in a good way).
Each method works, but some are gentler, smarter, and longer-lasting than others.
Related: How To Choose The Best Exfoliator For Your Skin Type
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What Are Enzymes?
Enzymes are chemicals that speed up the rate of chemical reactions by lowering their activation energy. For example, enzymes allow reactions that would literally take millions of years to occur in just a few milliseconds! Or reactions that would normally require dangerously high-temperatures occur at normal body temperatures when enzymes are around to do their job. Aren’t they super cool? There’s no way we could be alive without them.
What makes enzymes tricky in skincare, though, is that they’re naturally unstable outside the body. They need just the right conditions to stay active in a cream or serum. So while the science is fascinating, turning that science into a reliable skincare product is a whole other challenge.
How Do Enzyme Exfoliants Work?
Ok, so enzymes can do some really cool stuff. But, what do they do in an exfoliant? Exfoliants contain proteolytic enzymes. That’s a fancy way of saying they’re “able to breakdown proteins”. And guess what keeps those dull and rough outer layers of your skin stuck on your face? Keratin protein.
By nibbling away at keratin, enzymes essentially loosen up the “gluey” proteins in dead cells so they detach and reveal fresher, softer skin underneath. Unlike glycolic acid, which can sometimes cause tingling or stinging, enzymes usually work more quietly in the background. That’s why people often describe enzyme exfoliants as a ‘baby step’ into exfoliation. Perfect for beginners or those who freak out at the word ‘acid’.
What Are The Most Common Enzymes Used In Enzyme Exfoliants?
There are three enzymes that you’ll likely see pop up again and again in this kind of exfoliant:
- Bromelain: It’s extracted from pineapple. On the label, it often hides under the name Ananas Cosmosus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract.
- Papain: You guessed it, haven’t you? Yep, it’s derived from papaya. You’ll find it as Carica Papaya Fruit Extract on the label.
- Pumpkin enzyme: Ok, this is easy. It comes from pumpkin and disguises itself as Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Enzyme.
Some formulas also experiment with fig, kiwi, or mango extracts since these fruits contain naturally occurring proteolytic enzymes too. The downside? The more exotic the source, the harder it is to keep the enzyme active and consistent in a skincare jar or tube.
Related: The Complete Guide To Bromelain In Skincare
Why Should You Use An Enzyme Exfoliant?
Enzymes are much gentler than scrubs. Not that it takes much to be gentler than a scrub, mind you. Also,tmost enzymes also have anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritations, so they’re great for sensitive skin.
Another perk? Enzymes often come packaged in masks or peels, which means you get that spa-like ritual of applying, waiting, and rinsing. They can make your skin look instantly fresher before a big event – kind of like a quick facial you can do at home. Plus, since they don’t usually penetrate as deeply as acids, the risk of over-exfoliation is lower (though still possible if you go overboard).
Do Enzyme Exfoliants Have Any Side Effects?
Sounds too good to be true? Well, there IS a catch. Enzymes are divas. If the temperature and pH of a product ain’t just right, they won’t work. Any changes in their environment make them become unstable and useless.
It’s very tricky for cosmetic chemists to work with enzymes. Coming up with a formula that makes them happy can take a lot of time. I guess that’s why there aren’t that many enzyme exfoliants out there yet.
By the way, even if the chemists get everything right, there are still plenty of occasions for the enzymes to becomes unstable. For example, if these exfoliants stay for weeks on shop shelves that are in front of direct sunlight or if you keep them in the hottest room in your house, chances are they’ll go bad. Enzyme exfoliants need to be stored in a cool and dark place. Period.
Oh, one last thing. Enzyme exfoliants can irritate sensitive skin. Wait, what? Didn’t you just say that enzymes have anti-inflammatory properties, Gio? Yep. But it’s sensitive skin we’re talking about here. Some folks with sensitive skin can tolerate time-released retinol, for example. For others, even that is too much.
Enzyme exfoliants may be gentler than scrubs, but if you have sensitive skin, you never know if they’ll bother your skin until you try them. They can be your best friends or your worst enemy. Pretty much like anything else you try to put on your skin. *sighs*
Related: 9 Soothing Tips To Care For Sensitive Skin
FAQ: Enzyme Exfoliants vs Acids
Are enzyme exfoliants betterthan glycolic or salicylic acid?
No. Enzymes sort of nibble away at the surface dead skin so you look a bit fresher, a bit smoother, but they don’t go down into your pores or tackle the stuff that’s been building up for years, like acids do. If you’re trying to deal with acne scars, clogged pores, or sun spots, acids are the big guns.
Can you use enzymes and acids exfoliants together?
You can, but should you? I don’t recommend it. If you’re already using acids or other exfoliants, there’s just no point in adding another one into the mix. Using two or three exfoliants in a skincare routine is pointless. You’re paying twice for the same job. Not to mention irritation. Slapping them on the same night because you think double exfoliation = double glow. It doesn’t. It equals your face turning red and angry and maybe peeling in places you didn’t ask for.
Are enzyme exfoliants safe during pregnancy?
Mostly, yeah. They don’t go deep into your skin the way acids do, so people usually say enzymes are the safer option. So yeah there’s no proof they’ll harm baby. But, they may still cause irritation.
The Bottom Line
Enzymes exfoliants are cool, but too unstable yet. They go bad easily and there is no way of knowing when that will happen. That brand new bottle in the store may already be useless. Until science finds a better way to make enzyme exfoliants stable, I’ll stick to glycolic acid.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
