“Gio, how can The Ordinary products work if they’re so cheap? Where’s the catch?” Headaches. The catch is in the headaches The Ordinary gives you when you’re trying to decide what to buy. Want a simple retinoid serum, for example? Here are 6! 6, ladies! How the heck do you decide which one is right for you?! Do you go with the one with the highest concentration? Play eeny meeny miny moe? Flip a coin?
I’m a nerd, so I like to decode the labels and figure out which retinoid serum has the best ingredients for my skin type. Sounds too boring? Worry not. I’ve done the work so you won’t have to. 🙂 Here’s the ultimate guide to The Ordinary Retinoid serums, so you can make the best choice for your skin without the headache:
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids is the family name for every form of Vitamin A used in skincare products. Vitamin A is the only thing that’s been proven (so far!) to reduce the wrinkles you already have. I’m talking about reducing their depth and size, not just making them look smaller to the naked eye (what most skincare products do).
Vitamin A fights wrinkles in three different ways: it boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm; it neutralises the free radicals that cause wrinkles before they have the chance to wreak their damage on your skin; and they speed up your skin’s natural exfoliating process to smoothen out texture, even out skin tone, and treat acne.
There are different forms of Vitamin A used in skincare. The Ordinary Retinoid serums only use three forms: retinol, granactive retinoid, and retinal (short for retinaldehyde). For the purposes of this article, we’ll focus on them only.
Retinol: What It Is, Skincare Benefits, And Side Effects
Retinol is the most common form of Vitamin A found in OTC skincare products. Why? Most forms of Vitamin A need to be converted into Retinoic Acid, its pure form, to work their anti-aging magic on wrinkles. The conversion works like this:
Retinyl palmitate ==> Retinol ==> Retinaldehyde ==> Retinoic Acid
The closer a form is to Retinoic Acid, the more effective and (potentially) irritating, it is. It hits that perfect spot of being effective against wrinkles without being too irritating. So, what does it do, what benefits does retinol have for your skin?
- It has antioxidant properties that destroy the free radicals that cause premature wrinkles and dark spots.
- It accelerates cellular turnover (i.e. the skin’s natural exfoliating process), reducing the appearance of dark spots, wrinkles, and acne.
- It boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm.
The catch? Even though retinol is considerably gentler than Retinoic Acid, it can still cause irritation, dryness, and redness – especially in sensitive skin. I always recommend starting with the lowest concentration once a week and increasing both dose and frequency gradually, once your skin has gotten used to it.
Granactive Retinoid: What It Is, Skincare Benefits, And Side Effects
Granactive Retinoid is the nickname for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoid (that’s how you’ll find it on the ingredient list). Or HPR, for short. Unlike other forms of Vitamin A, like retinol, it does NOT need to be converted into Retinoic Acid to work.
According to the manufacturer, Granactive Retinoid gets rid of wrinkles and dark spots better than retinol – and without the irritation. Problem is, I couldn’t find any independent studies confirming this.
Granactive Retinoid is a retinoid, so I’m confident, it can help you reduce wrinkles, fade away dark spots, and smoothen out your complexion. There’s just no proof it does all this better than retinol.
What we know for sure, based on independent studies is that Granactive Retinoid can treat acne and melasma. It’s also gentler on the skin, so if yours can’t tolerate retinol, it makes sense to try Granactive Retinoid instead.
Related: What Form Of Retinoid Is Right For You?
Retinal: What It Is, Skincare Benefits, And Side Effects
Retinal (short for retinaldehyde) is one conversion step closer to Retinoic Acid than retinol. Translation? It works faster. While retinol needs to go through two conversions (retinol → retinal → retinoic acid), retinal only needs one – making it more potent, more effective, and… you guessed it, potentially more irritating too.
Retinyl palmitate ⇒ Retinol ⇒ Retinal ⇒ Retinoic Acid
What does that mean for your skin? It means retinal can reduce wrinkles, fade dark spots, and clear up acne faster than retinol – and with better results. 0.05% retinaldehyde is as effective as 0.05% Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin) for the treatment of photoaging. In comparison, “retinol is 20 times less potent than Tretinoin and it requires further conversion to Retinoic Acid (in vivo*)”.
Retinal has also been shown to:
- Boost collagen production more efficiently, helping firm up sagging skin
- Speed up cellular turnover to fade acne, pigmentation, and fine lines
- Fight acne-causing bacteria (unlike retinol, it’s antibacterial too)
Sounds amazing, right? It is – but here’s the catch: Like all forms of Vitamin A, it can cause redness, dryness and irritation when you first start using it. Follow standard procedures: a couple of nights a week to start with and build frequency and dose slowly.
Related: Can Retinaldehyde Give You All The Retinol Benefits Without Any Side Effects?
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The Ordinary Retinoid Serums: Which One Is Better For You?
The Ordinary has 6 retinoid serums. Are they all good? Are any of them bad and to-be-avoided at all costs? And which one is better for your unique skin type and needs? Let’s find out:
FYI: All forms of retinoids make skin more prone to sun damage. Use them at night only and apply sunscreen generously during the day.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane ($16.70)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane features 0.5% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a newer (and less studied than retinol) form of Retinoid. It comes in a sqialane base – Squalane is a moisturising oil that doesn’t clog pores and is suitable even for acne-prone skin.
Squalane gives the lightweight texture an oily feel. Despite that, it sinks in quickly into your skin. 0.5% HPR is very gentle, so this serum should not cause irritations. If it does, your skin is very, very sensitive, so give up retinoids completely.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
I recommend this serum only to sensitive, acne-prone skin that can’t tolerate other forms of Vitamin A (like retinol).
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: My Full Review Of The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (Previously Advanced Retinoid 2%) ($12.10)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion contains TWO forms of retinoids: 0.2% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate + an encapsulated retinol. Encapsulation means that retinol is released slowly into your skin over a period of several hours instead of all at once, making it gentler and better tolerated even by sensitive skin.
Having said, this serum is stronger than the Granactive Retinoids in Squalane, so it may irritate sensitive skin. Use it a couple of times a week and, if you experience no dryness or redness, increase frequency to any other day.
The texture is different. It’s the only formula without Squalane, so there’s no oiliness. It’s a creamy serum that absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving any greasy residue behind.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
It’s for women (and men) who want a medium-strength retinoid serum that gives results without irritating skin. It’s also a good option for those who want to use the best of the new (Granactive Retinoid) and old (Retinol) generation of retinoids. Why choose when you can have both?
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary and Ulta.
Related: My Full Review Of The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid Emulsion
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane ($8.10)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane uses 0.2% retinol. I personally prefer the retinol formulations because retinol has a ton of research to support its effectiveness, as opposed to the newer Hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
The catch? Retinol is more irritating. 0.2% is a mild concentration, but if you have very sensitive skin, you may experience some stinging and flaking. To make retinol less irritating, The Ordinary uses a Squalane base that’s both moisturising and soothing. Squalane also gives the serum a oily feel – a lightweight one, but it can still be a dealbreaker for some people.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
If you want to use retinol, but have never used it before, this is a great choice for your first retinoid product.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol: What It Is, What It Does, And How To Use It
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% In Squalane ($8.60)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% In Squalane has the same formula as The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane, but with a higher concentration of retinol: 0.5%, which translates into 0.025% retinoid acid. That’s enough to treat photoaging.
It also makes it a little more irritating, so you have a higher chance of irritation, redness, and dryness. To minimise these side effects, you have a moisturising Squalane base that also makes the texture slightly oilier. It takes 30 seconds to a min for it to fully absorb into your skin.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
If you’ve used 0.2% or 0.3% concentrations without side effects for a few months, and want to upgrade to a stronger formula for faster anti-aging results, this is for you.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: What Strength Of Retinol Do You Need?
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane ($8.60)
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane is the MOST powerful and effective out of all The Ordinary Retinoid serums. It uses 1% retinol, which converts into 0.5% retinoid acid. That’s enough to reduce sun damage and boost collagen.
The catch? 1% retinol is irritating. This should never be the first retinol product you try. You need to build up tolerance through this slowly by using smaller concentrations first. And even then, you may still experience some side effects, including dryness, redness, and peeling.
The Squalane base is once again here to minimise any dryness – but it does make the texture oily. It takes a minute or so to fully sink in.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
Retinoid pros who’ve worked their way up to this strength. It’s perfect for people who want to use the most effective OTC % of retinol, but aren’t ready to upgrade to prescription Tretinoin, yet.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
Related: Retinol Side Effects: What They Are And How To Deal With Them
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion ($14.90)
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion is my fave of the lot. Why? It uses 0.2% retinal. Stronger than the other two forms, so it produces results faster. It’s also gentler than retinol. You don’t have to compromise effectiveness for gentlest. Unless you abuse it and use it way more than you should.
The texture is lightweight, fast-absorbing, and… yellow. I kid you not, this stuff leaves a visible yellow stain on your skin. I personally don’t mind it because I only use it before I go to sleep. It’s a small price to pay to keep wrinkles at bay.
WHO IS IT BEST FOR?
Retinol pros who want the anti-aging benefits in a gentler formula.
Where to buy it: Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
The Verdict: Which The Ordinary Retinoid Serums Is Better?
| RETINAL 0. 2% EMULSION | GRANACTIVE RETINOI D5% | GRANACTIVE EMULSION | 0.2% RETINOL | 0.5% RETINOL | 0.1% RETINOL | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RETINOID | 0.2% Retinal | 5% Granactive Retinoid | 0.2% Granactive Retinoid + encapsulated retinol | 0.2% retinol | 0.5% retinol | 0.1% retinol |
| TEXTURE | Light cream, yellow stain | Moderately oily | Light cream | Slightly oily | Moderately oily | Oily |
| IRRITATING POTENTIAL | Moderate | Low | Low | Low | Moderate | High |
| SKIN TYPE | All skin types | Sensitive, acne-prone | All skin types | Sensitive skin | All skin types | All skin types |
If you’re:
- Looking for a gentle form of retinoid: Stick to Granactive Retinoid In Squalane.
- Prefer the tried-and-tested retinol and your skin isn’t sensitive: Go with the Retinol In Squalane.
- Can’t choose and want the best of both worlds: Opt for Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion.
- Want the most effective formula and your skin can take it: Use Retinal 0.2% Emulsion.
Whatever you opt for, always start with the smallest concentration first and work your way up.
Related: The Complete Guide To The Ordinary Vitamin C products.
The Ordinary Retinal 0.2% Emulsion Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyapatite, Retinal, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ergothioneine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Bisabolol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Hexyldecanol, Maltodextrin, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% Retinol In Squalane
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane Ingredients
Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
