Vibrating mascaras, one sweep eyeshadows, BB creams for hair… Beauty brands are always coming up with some crazy ideas to attract our attention and make us spend our hard-earned cash. The most ridiculous one? Colour-changing cosmetics that match your skintones and moods… How can that even happen? Can cosmetics change colour to match your skin tone? Yet, these blushes do change colour sightly upon application and look slightly different on everyone. Magic? Nah, just chemistry. 😉 Here’s how they work:
How Do Colour-Changing Cosmetics Work?
1. Red 27 Changes Colour With pH
Red 27 is a red dye that’s colourless in a waterless base. But, when it comes in contact with moisture, the change in pH turns it into a bright pink hue. When you apply it on your cheeks, the dye reacts with the moisture in your skin (or even in the air, especially in humid environments), changing colour.
This is the same dye often found in those green lipsticks that turn pink when you swipe them on. It’s not reacting to your “unique pH” or whatever the marketing says. It’s just doing its usual trick when it hits water or sweat. That’s why it shows up a bit differently on everyone. Some people have more moisture or oil on their skin, some are just warmer. Simple as that.
2. Encapsulated Colourants
Another trick is to coat colourants with waxy or gel-like ingredients, encapsulating them into small beads. Then, these beads are suspended in an uncoloured base. When you rub the usually colourless products into the skin, these beads break, releasing the colourant trapped inside them. The more you rub the product, the more colour is released. This gives the illusion that the product is able to detect your skintone, when, in reality, you just stop rubbing when the colour has become dark enough to match your colouring exactly. This technology is mostly used in powders and foundations.
Some products even tell you to “wait a few seconds for the colour to appear” to make it feel more magical, but really, that’s just the time it takes for the beads to burst or the dye to oxidize. The waiting time isn’t about your body doing something unique-it’s the formula catching up.
What About Mood-Responsive Makeup?
Let’s clear this one up right now: no makeup can read your emotions. You’re not going to put on a blush and have it know you’re stressed, angry, or joyful. Those “mood lipsticks” from the 90s? Total nostalgia bait. What they actually respond to is body heat. Warmer skin = faster colour change. Cooler skin = slower or paler colour shift. That’s it. Your lip balm isn’t a therapist. It’s a thermometer.
Are Colour-Changing Cosmetics Even Safe Though?
Yeah, it’s fine. Red 27 and the other dyes they use are allowed in makeup, just in tiny amounts and not near your eyes (so maybe don’t smear it on your lids for fun). If your face freaks out after using one of these, it’s probably the fragrance or just too much dye packed into one product. Always patch test, especially when it looks like a TikTok gimmick.
Does It Actually Work On Everyone?
Not really. Most of them just turn the same shade of bright pink or berry, no matter who’s wearing it. If you’ve got light or medium skin, it might look like it’s “matching” you. But if your skin’s deeper or warmer, it can look way too cool or like it’s just sitting on top of your face doing the most. A few brands are trying to make it work for more skin tones now, but let’s be honest: these formulas weren’t built with inclusivity in mind.
Can I Make My Own Colour-Changing Makeup?
Technically, yes… but it’s not easy. You’d need cosmetic-grade Red 27, a moisture-free base like certain oils or waxes, and a way to suspend and preserve the dye. And unless you’re a formulator with a background in cosmetic chemistry, it’s probably not worth the risk (hello, skin irritation). But hey, if you want to dabble, stick to lip balms. Less risky than blush.
The Bottom Line
No cosmetic product is able to magically figure out what your skintone or mood is, but they can, with the right technology, slightly change colour, thus appearing to react with your personal chemistry.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
