In winter, my skincare routine is taken over by facial oils. They melt away makeup and impurities without drying out my skin. Turn up the hydration level a notch or two. Seal in moisture so the cold winds can’t steal it all away. My skin would be a dry, flaky mess without them. I’m sure a lot of you can relate. 🙂 But not all oils will do. Some oils just don’t agree with your skin type, turn your face into a battlefield or simply irritate it. You need to choose wisely. And once you find that gem that makes your skin glow, make the most of it. Here are 5 tips to make them most of your facial oils:
1. Match The Oil To Your Skin
Not all oils are created equal. As a rule, the higher the saturated fat content of the oil, the heavier the oil feels. Dry skin likes oils rich in saturated fatty acids, like lauric, linoleic, linolenic and oleic acids. You can find them in coconut, argan and palm oils. These oils are wonderful for dry skin because they increase the amount of water skin can hold and trap it in so it can’t escape.
Oils less rich in saturated fats – think olive, sweet almond and apricot – instead, only trap moisture into the skin. If your skin is dry and doesn’t have enough moisture to begin with, these oils won’t help much. If you decide to go with one of them, make sure to use a water-based moisturiser or hyaluronic acid serum first to add plenty of moisture to your skin.
Oily skin doesn’t need oils. But if you’d like to make your skincare routine more natural, go with a lightweight oil that can balance sebum’s production and keep pimples at bay. The best ones are jojoba, rosehip and tea tree oils.
Related: What Are The Best Facial Oils For Oily Skin?
2. Avoid Fragrant Oils
There’s a reason why I don’t use (and like) a lot of natural skincare: it’s loaded with fragrant oils. I get it. Natural skincare products usually smell like crap. If you don’t add a fragrance, they won’t sell. And what could smell more delicious than a bouquet of oranges and lemons?
Truth bomb: if an oil smells too good, it’s bad news for skin. Fragrant oils contain compounds that can cause irritations and make your skin prone to sun damage. Citrus oils are some of the biggest culprits but they’re by no means the only ones. If you see any of these oils on the label, run away:
- All citrus oils
- Eucalyptus oil
- Geranium oil
- Jasmine oil
- Lavender oil
- Peppermint oil
- Rose oil
- Rosemary oil
- Sandalwood oil
- Ylang ylang oil
Related: 7 Natural Ingredients That Can Irritate Skin
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that banishes dryness and makes your skin supple and dewy? Download your FREE “Best Skincare Routine For Dry Skin” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
3. Use Only A Few Drops
When you slather on moisturiser, you usually use the size of a quarter. That’s how much cream you need to cover the whole face. So it makes sense to do the same with facial oils, right? Yes… if you want to look like a frying pan riddled with pimples… Not the look you’re going for, is it?
With facial oils, less is more. Depending on your skin type, you only need between three to six drops. More than that and your skin’ll end up in trouble. Warm those drops between your palms and press, don’t rub. If you’re shiny after two minutes, you used too much. Add one drop to your moisturizer instead of stacking layers if you keep overdoing it.
Nighttime trick: oil goes last, after your water serums (and cream – optional). It’s the lid. Putting oil first is like putting a raincoat under your sweater-pointless and sweaty.
Related: Are You Applying The Right Amount Of Each Skincare Product?
4. Apply On Damp Skin
The best time to apply oils is after a shower, when your skin is still damp. That’s because oils are great at sealing moisture into the skin. After a shower, your skin is full of moisture. If you don’t seal it in pronto, some of it may evaporate out of your skin.
If, like me, you use facial oils only at night, you may want to start showering right before going to bed. It may be weird at first but you’ll save some precious time in the morning. Win win. No shower? Fine. Mist with a basic hydrating toner, then go in with oil within a minute. Water first, oil second-the order matters.
Morning use is possible. I don’t recommend it because too much oil under sunscreen can mess with how your SPF grips the skin. If you must, keep it to 1-2 drops and let it fully sink in before sunscreen.
5. Store Them Properly
Facials oils oxidise (i.e. go bad) when exposed to light and air. You don’t want to splurge $60 on a facial oil only to see it become useless before you can use it all up. Don’t let your facial oils go to waste. Store them in a cool, dry place away from light and heat. They’ll last you a lot longer.
If it starts smelling like crayons or old nuts, it’s done. High-linoleic oils like rosehip turn faster-fridge life helps. Don’t decant into a cute clear bottle, and close the dropper fast. Air, heat, light-those are the three oil killers. Shelf life cheat sheet: squalane and hemi-squalane are sturdy; rosehip and evening primrose are delicate; anything with essential oils inside is fussy and expires quicker.
FAQs About Facial Oils
Do I need both facial oils and moisturizers?
Depends. Most of the time? No. One is enough. If you’ve already got a decent moisturizer with emollients and occlusives in it, you don’t need to waste time and money layering oil on top. Moisturizer = hydration plus the stuff that locks it in. Oil = just the lock. If your moisturizer is doing both, adding oil is just overkill.
Where oil actually makes sense is when your routine is too lightweight – like you’re only using a gel cream and your face still feels tight. Then yeah, a couple drops of oil at night can be the thing that stops you from waking up with lizard skin. But don’t let anyone convince you that both are mandatory. Most of the time, your skin’s fine with just one.
Related: Moisturizer VS Facial OIl: Which One Goes First?
Can Oils Actually Cause Acne?
They can – depends on the oil. Some are heavy and comedogenic, like coconut or wheat germ oil, and they’ll clog pores for most people. Others, like jojoba or hemp seed, are lighter and actually help balance oil production. It’s not that oils = acne, it’s that the wrong oil for your skin = acne. That’s why patch testing matters. A few days on your jawline tells you more than any “safe for acne” label.
Should I Use Oils Morning Or Night?
Night is easier. You’re not layering SPF and makeup on top, so your oil has hours to sit and do its job. Morning is fine too, but you need a light hand. Two drops max, pressed in, then sunscreen. Otherwise, your SPF won’t grip right, and your makeup slides. So: night if you’re lazy, both if you’re dry and disciplined, but always light in the AM.
Do Facial Oils Replace Serums?
Nope. Serums deliver active ingredients – vitamin C, retinoids, niacinamide – that change your skin. Oils don’t do that. They comfort, they seal, they add glow, but they’re not going to rebuild collagen or fade dark spots. Think of them as the blanket, not the medicine. If you want results, keep your serums. If you want softness and protection, add oil on top.
What’s The Shelf Life Of Facial Oils?
Depends on the oil. Stable ones like squalane last a year or more. Fragile ones like rosehip or evening primrose? Six months, tops, and faster if you leave them in the sun. If it smells like crayons or salad dressing, it’s rancid. Don’t risk it – rancid oil can irritate your skin. Fridge storage helps with delicate oils, but don’t bother with sturdy ones like jojoba.
The Bottom Line
Facial oils are great moisturisers for winter time. The key is choosing the right one for your skin type and have a good application technique that maximises results.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
